We’ve Landed… Permanently!

After nearly two years of travel, visiting 70 countries on all 7 continents, we have found a place to call home. It’s been a wild ride but we would not change a single moment of it. We were lucky over the past few months to have our family and friends open their homes and lives to us as we were in limbo. We will be forever grateful for their generosity and support.

After a few months in a state of “unknown”, we are thrilled to living on the beach in South Florida. Here is how we got here…

Driving through downtown Atlanta

Several weeks of looking for a job paid off and Robert accepted a position at a beach resort in South Florida. With no where to stay and no idea where we were going to live, we packed up our things. We started out in Wisconsin at my brother and sister-in-law’s house. After loading up a U-Haul with furniture they gifted to us, we drove our newly purchased car and the U-Haul south toward the Sunshine State. We made great time making it all the way to Orlando in 2 days. We squeezed as much as we could fit in the truck from our Orlando storage unit and made the final part of the drive to Fort Lauderdale. The entire trip was just over 1,500 miles.

It was such a relief to arrive at our final destination, not just for us but for our 15-year old shih tzu/terrier mix, Howie. I don’t think he could handle another hour in the front seat of the car. When he realized we were not going to drive any farther, he was so excited.

We spent the next 5 days in a hotel (not a nice one because it was during spring break, ugh!). We connected with a great real estate agent and started the hunt for the perfect place to live. I was determined to find something along A1A, near the beach, that accepted pets and had spots to park two cars. It was hard to find but we got lucky. Within in a few hours it being posted we found the perfect condo on the beach. Now we wake up every morning to beautiful sunrises over the water.

Tomorrow I start my new position. My days of soaking up the sun have come to an end. The new chapter in our adventure begins.

It would be great to hear from you and would love to have visitors. We look forward to catching up with everyone soon!

Traveling East Africa – Tanzania and Malawi

The holidays and lack of internet in Africa have caused our blog posts to be a little behind. We are excited to share the remaining blogs from our trip to East Africa.

Lioness and cubs in Mikumi National Park

Leaving the island of Zanzibar behind us, we continued our journey through east Africa with a one-night stopover in Dar es Salaam. Located on the Indian Ocean coast, Dar es Salaam is the former capital of Tanzania and the largest city in the country. It isn’t much of a tourist city but interesting to see the day to day life of the people while passing through. Continuing southwest on the road toward to Malawi, we passed through many small villages. All along the roads local children and adults waved to us a we passed by.

Waterhole in Mikumi National Park
Looking for animals on the game drive

Before making it to the border, we stopped at Mikumi National Park in Tanzania. We camped inside the park and did a long game drive the next morning. The landscape of the park is similar to the Serengeti National Park. From the very first 30 minutes of the drive we were up close and personal with a family of lions. We really enjoyed the visit to the park and the wide variety of animals that we saw.

Young male lion

Leaving Tanzania behind us, we traveled toward the border of Malawi. Along the way we made a stop to the large amount of baobab tress. These trees are considered Africa’s “Tree of Life” and was used a such in the Disney movie “The Lion King.” The trees are enormous. It is really incredible when standing in a valley that is surrounded by the monstrous trees.

Our tent with a view

After our brief stop to see the baobabs, we made it to the country line. The border crossing into Malawi is not easy. The process is manual for the passports and it took over 3 hours for our group and our truck to be cleared through the border. Once we finally made it through, we continued the drive to the northwest side of Lake Malawi. There we spent the night along the sandy beach with a beautiful view over the water.

Lake Malawi is also known as Lake Nyasa in Tanzania and Lago Niassa in Mozambique. It is the fourth largest fresh water lake in the world by volume. Lake Malawi is home to more species of fish than any other lake in the world, including over 700 species of cichlids.

There is very little industry or work available for the local people in Malawi. The lake supports the people through fishing, providing both a source of work and of food. Many of the other people in the surrounding area farm using the small pieces of land around their homes.

After our first night, we moved to a different resort along the southwest side of the lake. We stayed for two nights, camping along the beach. The next two days, we played beach volleyball, played cards and hang out with our group. It was such fun to relax and enjoy that beautiful spot.

Classroom of the local school. The desks were donated by European tourists. The children learn by listening and reviewing the blackboard. They do not have books or notepaper.

Even though we had a lot of time for fun, we also got a chance to go on a tour of the local village. During our three hour walk we visited a local’s home, the village school, the area hospital and the local market. The visit to the school was interesting, heart-wrenching and intense. Hundreds of children gathered around us from the moment we reached the school yard. All of the children wanted to hold hands with us and speak to us in English.

This is the hospital and on of the two doctors we met.

Our tour of the village continued with a visit to the local hospital. We were greeted by one of the two doctors that tend to a population of over 200,000 people. The medical treatment is very limited to delivering babies and treating minor injuries. If a patient needs surgery, they will be transferred to the major hospital 90 kilometers away. The transport is provided by one ambulance that serves five different medical facilities in the region. The doctors are doing the best they can with limited resources. The majority of treatment is given to people suffering from malaria.

We ended our tour of the village with a visit to the main street and local market. It was interesting to see the happenings of everyday life. Women were getting water from the local well and selling their fresh grown veggies in the market. The children who are too small to go to school, go to the market with their moms (notice the baby under the table of tomatoes).

Our visit to Malawi was relaxing and fun while hanging out on the beach. It was also a close look into the lives of the Malawi people. It was a great opportunity to explore more of East Africa.

The last country on our journey is Zambia. We are off to explore the nature and wildlife of South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.

On the Road to Zanzibar

Leaving the Serengeti behind and traveling south on bumpy roads, we headed toward the historical town of Bagamayo. This city played an important role in the East African slave trade. While we only spent the night there, it was incredible to see some of the reminders that are left behind. Most noticeably are the Christian Churches spread through the area that were established by missionaries when slavery was abolished. The churches stick out in a landscape of primarily Islamic people.                   

After our overnight in Bagamayo, we drove to the large city of Dar es Salaam. The traffic was terrible but when we finally made it, we were able to secure tickets on the 12:30pm ferry to the island of Zanzibar. Local transportation in this area of the world are always an adventure. Our group appeared to be the only tourists on board with hundreds of locals. People were squeezed into every seat, ledge and available floor space to endure the two-hour boat trip to the island. Lucky for me the seas weren’t too rough and I didn’t get sea sick.                

Upon arrival at the ferry terminal all foreigners must pass through immigration. While Zanzibar is part of Tanzania, they operate almost independently. No additional visa is needed but it is mandatory to show your passport and vaccination card (for yellow fever) to be allowed to exit the terminal. Once we all made it through, a local guide met us for our transfer to the north part of the island. The drive was approximately 1.5 hours. The travel time was worth it as all the most beautiful beaches are located on the northern tip of the island. Everyone in our group was thrilled to spend a few days relaxing on the beach, swimming, shopping the markets and enjoying a few local beers.                                 

Our small boat was packed full of people. 

We jumped on the chance to go snorkeling at one of the very small island on the northeast coast. The water is super clear and the fish are abundant. The boat ride to get there was a bit rough because it was packed with too many people for a two-hour each way trip. We would recommend that anyone interested in doing a snorkel trip should find a company that takes no more than 20 people at a time. It would be a much better experience had we thought to inquire about that in the beginning. Nevertheless, we made the most of our time in the water and on the secluded beach.

In the evenings, we indulged in the hotel buffet featuring local Zanzibar dishes followed by watching the breathtaking sunsets.

Our time on the north side of the island came to an end and our guide arrived again to pick us up. We had one more day in Zanzibar but were moving hotels to one in the in city, Zanzibar City. On the way back to the center of the island, we stopped at a fruit and spice plantation. For hundreds of years, Zanzibar has been known to the world as one of the “Spice Islands.” The climate is perfect to grow exotic spices which are then exported around the world. The most exported product is clove. A guided walk through the plantation gave us a chance to see the plants growing as well as taste many of them fresh from the plant, including black pepper, nutmeg and cinnamon. The most popularly grown fruits are jackfruit and coconut. At the end of our walk, fresh coconuts were cut open and given to us to enjoy.

Later that afternoon after checking in to our hotel, the guide collected us again for a tour of the historic district of the city. The neighborhood within the city known as Stone Town in recognized an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stone Town was founded by the Sultan of Oman to be used as a trading port both for spices and slaves that were sold to Europe and the Middle East. The presence of the Islamic culture remains very prevalent on the island of Zanzibar.

Our tour started with lunch at a local restaurant. Followed by a walk through the historic district. Most interesting was the former slave market which is now a museum. When it was in use, it was an open-air market. Today, there are several areas that can be visited including the cathedral that was built when slavery was abolished, a memorial to the people who were enslaved, a museum and the slave holding rooms underground. It was a very emotional experience to be in the place where such crimes against humanity occurred.                           

Next stop on our walk was the city market. Anything people want to buy can be found there. The meat stalls were very interesting as well as extremely smelly. Seafood is the main source of protein on the island. We saw a wide variety of offerings most interesting was a stingray that was being cut up to sell by the piece.                          

Following our guide out of the market and into the narrow streets and alleyways of Stone Town, we were treated to many unique people and shops. I enjoyed seeing all the different ways the shopkeepers would displays their wares.                 

Toward the end of our tour, we stopped at the sight of Freddie Mercury’s birthplace. He is well known for being the lead singer of Queen as well as said to have one of the best voices of all time. The people of Zanzibar are quite proud that he was born there.                

Just before being picked up by our driver, we made a short visit to the Old Fort of Zanzibar. Built by the Omani Arabs after defeating the Portuguese in 1699. It is the only Arab fort in East Africa.Today the fort is used as a venue for festivals and pubic events.

Old Fort of Zanzibar

After our very hot walk through Stone Town, we had some time to relax and cool off at our beachside hotel. The next day we took the ferry back toTanzania mainland to continue our overland tour.                                

Our adventure tour through Tanzania continues with game drives in Mikumi National Park.

Back to Africa – Nairobi, Kenya

Following our wonderful visit with family over Thanksgiving we made the VERY long trip from LaGrande, Oregon to Nairobi, Kenya. The trip consisted of a 6-hour drive, an overnight flight from Seattle to London (8.5 hours), a 6-hour layover in London and a second overnight flight (9 hours) from London to Nairobi. With 30 hours of travel behind us we arrived extremely exhausted at 5:00 am.  A visa is required to enter Kenya and can be purchased at the airport upon arrival. The line wasn’t long and we waited less than 30 minutes to get the visa and pass through immigration.

We were lucky our hotel allowed us to check-in very early, giving us a chance for a rest before our 9:00 am tour of some Nairobi sights. Knowing we would be very tired, we booked a half day tour. Unfortunately, the day didn’t turn out exactly how we planned. Read on to find out why…

Our taxi after the accident 

A driver came to our hotel to pick us up and take us to the meeting point of our tour. The traffic was absolutely horrible and all the drivers were very frustrated. About 20 minutes into our taxi ride, a bus ran a red light in an intersection and we hit the bus right in the side. Luckily, no one was hurt in either vehicle but the car was a little worse for wear. After arguing with the city bus driver in the middle of the street for quite a while, our driver found another taxi driver that could take us to our meeting point. We soon found out that the two men did not know each other and the second taxi driver had no idea who was going to pay him (our ride was pre-paid with the tour).  Turns out, he was just a good samaritan. He took us to our destination and wait with us for over an hour until our tour guide showed up. We made sure that the tour guide paid the taxi driver that helped us out.

After what felt like a full morning already, we started our tour at the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. This organization rescues orphaned elephants from all over Kenya, raises them till they are able to rejoin others in the wild. The elephants range in age from 15 months to 4 years old. The keepers feed them via bottles three times a day. Visitors are allowed to visit the orphanage from 11:00 am – 12:00 pm each day for a donation of $7 per person, cash only. We really enjoyed the experience of seeing all the baby elephants playing, eating and showing off.

Our next stop was Giraffe Manor. This is a very famous property that boasts a very expensive hotel (approx. $1,000 per night) where the giraffes are on the grounds and often visit guests through the windows while they are dining in the restaurant. Since we don’t have the funds for an overnight stay, our guide took us to the visiting area where we got a chance to feed and visit with the giraffes. The entrance fee is $10 per person, paid in cash or credit card. It is the first time we have had a chance to be that close to the giraffes. We could definitely see that each one has its own personality . It is an experience that we would definitely recommend.

An unscheduled lunch stop took more than 2 hours. We were getting very tired but pushed on.   

Last stop of the day was the Karen Blixen Museum. If you don’t recognize her by name, you may know the very famous book made into a movie, Out of Africa. The book is the most famous of her works. The museum is inside of the house she lived in outside of Nairobi. It is also the house that was used in the movie. Karen Blixen is highly respected in Kenya for the work she did in the early 1900s with the local people of Kenya and Somalia.

We really enjoyed the tour, but were ready to go straight to bed. Our guide took us back to the city of Nairobi which is about 10 miles but took 1.5 hours. He dropped off the other couple that was with us and put the directions to our hotel in his phone. It said we were 4.2 kilometers from our hotel. We thought great, we are almost there! Ha, we were sooooo wrong!!

Traffic in Nairobi during rush hour is the absolute worst we have seen in the entire world. It took us over 3 hours to go 4.2 kilometers. Our half day tour turned into 10.5 hours. We arrived back at our hotel approximately 7:30 pm. After a shower and a quick snack, we went to bed with anticipation of meeting our Nomad Adventure Tour group the next morning.

Over all we were not impressed with Nairobi. The sights we visited were great but the city is not tourist friendly at all and the traffic is a huge deterrent. We will likely be back one day as Nairobi is the airport hub for East Africa tours. It is just important to allow a lot of extra time for traffic and whatever else might not go as planned.

After meeting our new group, we are headed to the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater. These have been at the top of our bucket list since the very beginning of our travels and we can’t wait to get there!

A Stopover in the USA – Happy Thanksgiving!

After leaving Tahiti, we flew direct to San Francisco. I’m sure you’re thinking, “that has to be a really expensive flight.” For most airlines that is true but we were lucky to find a new airline (a division of Air France) called French Bee. They offer direct flight for a fraction of the price. If you are wanting to go to Tahiti, French Bee is definitely the way to go.

Medrona Vineyards

My Mom and Stepdad picked us up in San Francisco and took us back to their house in Sacramento. We spent a few weeks there  prior to Thanksgiving. During that time, we had several visitors. First were Jerome and Renee from Litchfield, IL (my hometown). They came for a long weekend. We had a blast visiting the wineries in the Apple Hill area. We even got to be “wine pourers” at Medrona Vinyards special event that same weekend.

One evening during the week, Jeff and Socorro came for dinner. We enjoyed visiting with them and talking about our travel adventures.

The following weekend, my brother Michael and sister-in-law, Laura came for a visit. It was great to see them and send time playing competitive games. The first day we all went to Napa Valley for some wine tasting. They are members of the Frog’s Leap Wine Club, so we started out there. They offer a very nice tasting experience and have beautiful gardens to enjoy a stroll. Since it is autumn the vines and trees were right in the midst of changing colors. The yellow, red and orange leaves were a delight to the eyes.

Robert and Laura teamed up for a game of Hand and Foot. They killed the other two teams. We also played taboo with girls against boys. The girls won! After wrapping up our last game of cards (Missy and Mike won!) on Monday mid-day, Mike insisted he have In-n-Out Burger before he could leave the west coast. He believes the visit isn’t complete until he has one of their famous burgers.

 

During the weekend Mike and Laura were visiting, the “Camp Fire” in Butte county California was burning out of control. The town of Paradise is 90 miles north from Sacramento. The smoke was heavy and the wind blew it straight toward Sacramento.

View over South Lake Tahoe

As the smoke covered everything and the air quality index skyrocketed. Mike and Laura flew back home Monday afternoon just before the smoke became extremely bad. Robert had a very bad reaction to it, keeping him in bed with flu like symptoms for the next 3 days. By Thursday, we decided to go to Lake Tahoe up in the mountains for fresh air. South Lake Tahoe is now built up into a great ski town with lots of shops and restaurants at the bottom of the Heavenly Ski Resort Gondola. We stayed at the Hard Rock Hotel and enjoyed the live music at the restaurants.

We ended up staying two nights before taking a flight out early to Seattle. Once out of the smoke and air quality index over 280, Robert immediately felt better. The fire continued for about 2 weeks before being under control. We are praying for all of the people who have lost their homes and family members in the terrible fire.

Linda did not want to be in our selfie. Bummer!

After a delayed flight, we made it to Robert’s mom’s house at 2:00am. Luckily we rented a car so she did not have to come and get us. It was an unexpected visit but we always enjoy seeing her. She even took us to our favorite west coast retail store, Fred Meyer.

 

Monday before Thanksgiving we made the 6 hour drive from Seattle to LaGrande, OR. It is Robert’s hometown and where his father and stepmom live. There was no snow or ice on the roads which made the drive through the mountains much easier.

I have been told that when making this drive, one must stop in Yakima, WA for a visit to the Miner’s Drive-in. It is a famous hamburger restaurant that has been around forever. They serve incredibly large burgers. I have been once before several years ago. We stopped there for lunch and it was just as I remembered. 

 

 

We stopped at Columbia Crest Winery for a tasting along our way. It is located along Horse Heaven Hills, a beautiful but sparse landscape in Eastern Washington.

From the top right: Robert, Tracy, Curt, Alisa, Lauren, Jessica, Cherlyne, Teresa, Thomas, Will, Ronan, Missy, David Sr., David Jr. and Max (the dog).

The week of Thanksgiving at the Allens was fun and full of family games. There was a large group of 14 to celebrate the holiday. We made traditional Thanksgiving dishes. Cherlyne (Robert’s stepmom) makes a mean pecan pie! Robert cut the turkey and I got a chance to cook with David (Robert’s dad) which I look forward to each year. He is a wonderful cook and teaches me little trick each time we visit.

Today we are off to the airport. We are taking two overnight flights to reach Nairobi, Kenya. There will be joining another Nomad Adventure Tour through Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe. This trip is bitter sweet as it marks the last of our Allen World Tour. After 30 days in Africa we will return back to the USA to start a new chapter in our lives. We will continue our blog as we travel through Africa and into whatever comes next!

Two Weeks in Tahiti and Moorea, French Polyensia

The sun was shining and the air was warm as we said goodbye to our home of 34 days. Disembarkation in Papeete, Tahiti was the easiest one we have ever experienced. Within in a few minutes we had picked up our luggage and were on the shuttle bound to the airport. Our friends Gill and John had rented a car and as luck would have it, they had booked the same exact beach lodge as we did. What are the odds?

The four of us packed our luggage and ourselves into a tiny car and made the drive to the other side of the island. Our lodge consisted of three bungalows on the black sand beach. It was incredibly beautiful. We spent the next 3 days touring around the island and soaking up the sun.

Tahaaraa lookout point on Tahiti

After 3 days, John and Gill had to go home. After spending so much time together and becoming great friends, we were so sad to see them go. We helped them pack the car and waved as they pulled out of the drive.

After Gill and John left, we still had 10 days on the islands. We enjoyed the pool, the beach and playing cards on our deck. There is nothing like sitting in the shade, taking in the smell of the ocean and listening as the waves roll in.

When the time came for us to check out of the Surf Beach Paradise Lodge, our host took us into the city of Papeete to drop us off but once we got there, we couldn’t find the address for our Airbnb. Come to find out the address was listed wrong and it was actually on the island of Moorea.

Our four-legged friends (Rex and Bella) on Moorea.

So, we had to buy ferry tickets and take the 25 minute ride to the other island. The ferry tickets were $30 per person roundtrip. The taxi fares are quite expensive ranging between $35 – $50 per ride. With that in mind, after two transfers and the ferry ride we made it to our booked house. Unfortunately the house was terrible. Sometimes, things don’t go as planned. We made an unexpected move to another Airbnb. Our second accommodation on Moorea was in a studio attached to a local’s house. Our host, Laurence drove in her personal car to pick us up and take us to the accommodation – Afareaitu. The couple we stayed with were very nice and really helped us have a great stay. Their four-legged kids were sweet as can be.

Moorea has a low population with the people living along the coast. Outside of the cruise port area, it is very rural. Near the port, tours are available to go to swim with sharks and rays. We did that on the cruise, so during our stay on Moorea we relaxed, read books, played it he water and challenged each other in card games. Watching sunrise and sunset was wonderful.

Sunrise from Moorea looking at the island of Tahiti.

Our highlight of Moorea was a two mile hike up into the mountains to a beautiful waterfall. The hike took us through a neighborhood,  past a farm and onto a very narrow path through the forest. It was very humid so we were very hot when we reached the falls. I was eager for a swim in the cool water. We were lucky to be the only ones at the secluded spot.

View from our condo of Matavi Bay.

After 4 days we decided to head back to Tahiti and spend a few days at one of the big beach resorts. We were able to book a condo in the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort complex. The resort was located on the infamous Matavi Bay. The same bay visited by many famous captains like Captain Cook and Captain Bligh when they explored the pacific.

One of the nights during our stay, there was a performance by a local dance group. We enjoyed the traditional music and Robert even got a chance to try out some of the moves.

Sunset looking at Moorea

After 2 weeks on the islands, it was time for us to get on a plane as well. We really enjoyed seeing French Polynesia. However, overall it is very expensive and similar in beauty to Hawaii or the Caribbean. We did not find the locals to be very friendly and as a tourist it is not easy to get around. Should we go to French Polynesia again, it would be on a cruise.

A parahi (goodbye in Tahitian)! We are anxious to see our families and celebrate American Thanksgiving in the USA.  We will spend a few weeks in the US before our final leg of our adventure in Africa.

Pitcairn Island – The Infamous Home of the Mutineers of H.M.S. Bounty

Pitcairn Island

April 28, 1789 Fletcher Christian (Master’s Mate) and a group of crew mates took control of the ship, H.M.S. Bounty. That moment went down in history as one of the most famous maritime stories of all time. Since then, much has been written about that event and all of the men that were involved. Most widely known is the novel, Mutiny of the Bounty by Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall published in 1939.

During the mutiny, Captain William Bligh and 18 others were cast off on a launch. They sailed 6,400 kilometers in 47 days on a 7 meter long open boat arriving in Batavia (present day Jakarta) where they could find passage back to England. Fletcher Christian and the remaining crew set sail back to Tahiti and left soon after for a location where they would not be discovered.  Using charts and intuition, they found the island of Pitcairn which was mismarked on the maps. This allowed the mutineers safety from being found. It was not until 1808 that an American whaling ship was drawn to the island by smoke from a cooking fire. By then, all but one of the mutineers had passed away. The Tahitian wives and children of the mutineers remained.

In route from Easter Island to French Polynesia, our ship had the opportunity to sail through the waters at Pitcairn Island. In preparation for our visit, lectures were offered on board about the history and current life of the inhabitants of the famous island. Robert and I went one step further and both read books that would give us a better insight into the intrigue that surrounds Pitcarin. Robert read the novel, Mutiny of the Bounty. I read The Bounty: The True Story of the Mutiny on the Bounty by Caroline Alexander. Since the true events of what motivated the mutiny and how it happened varies greatly from the novel, we had some very lively discussions. If you are interested in real life swashbuckling tales and mystery, get yourself one or both of these books.

Adamstown

Today, the descendants of the Bounty mutineers live on the very remote island of Pitcarin. There are 30 – 40 residents at any one time. They live very isolated from the rest of the world with no airport and delivery ships come no more than 10 times per year. It is nearly impossible to set foot on the island. The passengers of our ship are some of the very few people in the world that ever have a chance to see the island and it’s only town, Adamstown. The town was named after the last living member of the Mutineers of the Bounty, John Adams.

We were very excited to have a chance to see a place that is so famous (or infamous).

Our trip through the Pacific Ocean will come to an end as we visit several French Polynesian Islands, ending in Tahiti. The local people (mostly the women) living near Matavi Bay on the large island of Tahiti have long been thought to be the inspiration for the Mutiny on the Bounty.

Trujillo, Lima and Paracas – Peru

Trujillo – Plaza de Armas

Our journey continues south along the western coast of South America, we visited three Peruvian cities. Each offered something different and we learned a great deal about Peru’s history, culture and wildlife. The first stop we made in Peru was Trujillo. Prior to the cruise, we did not know much about the important place Trujillo holds in Peruvian history. After the lectures offered on board the ship and the private tour we took with a local guide, we are enlightened about the ancient cultures that once thrived in this very barren landscape.

View of the Sun Temple from the top of the Moon Temple with the excavation of the village in between.

Al Apaec – The most important god of the Moche people.

After meeting our guide and driver on the dock, we wasted no time in going straight for the Sun and Moon Temples of the ancient Moche people. When most people think of Peru, Machu Picchu is the first thing that comes to mind. Of course, there were civilizations that thrived 1,000 years before the Incas. The Moche Culture (pronounced Mot-ché) lived between 100 and 800 A.D. and lived on the land that surrounds modern day Trujillo. The Sun and Moon Temples were constructed over several hundred years. The two temples sit on opposite sides of a valley. Historically the village would have been in valley between the two temples. Today, people can visit the Moon Temple as it has been excavated but the Sun Temple remains a solid structure to be viewed from the outside only. We arrived before the site was open for the day but our guide knew the guards who allowed us to enter early. It was wonderful because we had approximately 40 minutes to explore before anyone else arrived. Much of the wall paintings have survived all these years in part, because, as the years passed the Moche people buried their dead within the temple and then built on top of it. The grandeur cannot be caught in a photograph but here are a few to provide a visual of what an 1,800 year old Moche temple looked like. 

The red arrow indicates the ramp that was used to access the temple from the valley.

Example of a Chimor Chief in traditional dress.

A trip to Trujillo would not be complete without a visit to the archeological site of Chan Chan. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the largest city from the pre-Columbian era in all of South America. It was the capital of the Chimor Empire from 900 to 1470 A.D. when they were defeated and incorporated into the Inca Empire. The city is believed to have been constructed around 850 A.D. Chan Chan is spread over 20 square kilometers and at its height had a population of 40,000 – 60,000 people. Today less than 20% of it has been excavated. The inner parts of the sacred temple and living quarters are open to the public.

Main gathering area in the center of the city. The square can host up to 20,000 people at a time.

Following our history lessons of visiting the sites of both the Moche and Chimor people, we visited the current day downtown of Trujillo.

The city center is Plaza de Armas, the Spanish foundation of Trujillo established in 1534. The main focal points are the Freedom Monument and Trujillo Cathedral. The colorful buildings that make up the square where once the mansions of the high-ranking officials. Today, many of the mansions are museums.

The final stop we made on our tour of the Trujillo area was Huanchaco Beach. The locals visit for the beach experience and the tourists visit to see the traditional reed boats used by fisherman for hundreds of years. The boats are still made in the traditional way using reeds that grow in fresh water. It is similar to a canoe but solid. The fisherman ride on top and fish with nets. As with most fisherman, they go out very early in the mornings. The boats came be seen any time of day as they are lined up along the shore for storage when not in use. Other attractions along the beach are restaurants and shops catering to both locals and tourists.

Robert had to stop for a churro from local vendor.

Puerto Callao, near Lima was our second port in Peru. Our ship was in port for 2 days allowing us a chance to explore Lima during the day as well as at night. We went to Lima six years ago on our trip to visit Machu Picchu and our friends Gill and John have also been to Lima. So, the four of us stuck together to see the sights of around the city. We used Uber to get us from place to place. Uber is very cheap in Peru and there are tons of Uber drivers, making the wait times for a ride very minimal. The highlights of our visit were The National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History, The Basilica and Convent of San Francisco (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Magic Water Circuit at night.

The museum is definitely worth a visit as it houses artifacts from thousands of years of Peruvian history. Many of the items on display were collected from the archaeological sites all over the country including both the Moche civilization and Chan Chan. The most interesting exhibits are the Inca mummies and the unusual shaped skulls. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures of these exhibits to share with you. 

View from Basilica, looking down the stairs into the catacombs.

The Basilica and Convent of San Francisco is famous for its catacombs. The building of the Basilica and Convent were completed in 1674. From its completion until 1808 more than 25,000 people were laid to rest in the catacombs. Upon the rediscovering in 1943, the graves were unearthed and the bones were organized into sections. This unique display is where the intrigue for visitors lie. On our English guided tour through the convent, we were able to see the library which looks like something out of a Harry Potter movie. It is only on display for a limited time. We also visited the Basilica where some of the bones in the catacombs can be viewed through gated staircases. This very interesting place is worth a visit when visiting Lima.

Mixed seafood ceviche at a local restaurant.

After stopping for some ceviche at a local restaurant, we walked the 2 miles to the Parque de la Reserva. While the park has been open since 1929, the city of Lima created a water and light show that debuted within the park in 2007. The show lasts approx. 15 minutes and happens several times throughout the afternoon and evening. The best viewing time is after dark where the colors appear brighter. Entrance to the park is about $1.25 pp. After watching the show, we visited all of the other 13 fountains at are displayed around the park. Each has its own colors, music and themes. 

Our final port in Peru was Paracas, a very small seaside village near Pisco.

Commercial fishing boats off the coast of Paracas.

Paracas Candelabra

Yes, you may have heard of Pisco – the place where the Pisco Sour drink was created. While having a Pisco Sour was high on our list, we started our morning with a boat ride out and around Islas Ballestas. This group of small islands is considered the “Galapagos of Peru.” Our small group of 10 people were the on the first boat out to the islands offering us spectacular views of the wildlife before the crowds arrived. Before we got to the islands, we stopped along the coast to see the Paracas Candelabra. It is well-known pre-historic geoglyph found on the north-facing dune in Pisco Bay. It is thought to be from around 200 B.C. The design is cut into the soil two feet deep. It has a height of 595 feet tall. It is in many ways similar to the Nazca Lines. There are many theories as to what the Candelabra represents and why it was put there – the most popular theory was to guide sailors into the bay.

Once we reached the Ballestas, we could see birds flying everywhere. The islands are home to over 500,000 seabirds including Humboldt Penguins, Guanay Cormorants, Terns, Pelicans and Boobies. Click here is to see a video of the Humboldt Penguins diving into the water. Diving Penguins Video . There are also many sea lions living along the lower rocky parts of the islands. One special moment happened as we watched a young sea lion come out of the water and climb up the rocks with his catch in his mouth. Click here to watch the video. Sea Lion Video The Islas Ballestas are within a protected marine area. The only people allowed to set foot on the island are the workers that come several times a year to collect the guano from the Guanay Cormorants that is harvested and used for fertilizer. There is so much to see it is almost overwhelming. Here are some of our favorite photos of the wildlife on Islas Ballestas.

On our way back from the islands our boat went through a throng of sea birds. Thousands of birds were feasting on the small fish and krill in the water. We have never seen so many birds in one place. Click the link to see the video for a glimpse of what we saw. Seabirds in Pisco Bay

Back on land in Paracas we wondered the boardwalk looking in the stalls. The village was celebrating international tourism day with Pisco Sour tastings, local dancers and street performers. One of the street performers was feeding a pelican which offered the chance to be quite close to it. Robert jumped at the chance to examine the shear size of it. He was like a little kid. I just had to snap a photo. 

 

We had a wonderful time participating in the festivities. We ended our day in Paracas with a cold Pisco Sour. This is a small seaside town that should not be missed.   

 

Over the next week we will be out to sea on our way to Easter Island. It has always been a dream to visit the island of mystery. We look forward to sharing some of the legends that surround that incredible island the locals call Rapa Nui.

The Port Cities of Panama, Costa Rica and Ecuador

Our 34-night cruise has been an amazing adventure so far. We have been traveling to some of the most remote parts of the world. In the middle of the Pacific ocean there is no internet and the places we have stopped along the way do not have internet that actually works. So, I apologize for our delayed posts over the past three weeks. Now that we have internet again, we are excited to share the highlights of our trip from Fort Lauderdale to Tahiti.

After leaving Columbia, we had two days at sea which brought us to the San Blas Islands belonging to Panama. The Guna people that inhabit the islands along the Caribbean coast of Panama. They are native to this area and have been living off the sea for hundreds of years.

Lifeboat that is also used as a tender.

As with many of the ports we have visited over the past month, very few cruise ships are allowed to port near San Blas. Passengers from our ship were taken ashore on a tender. As we rode toward the cluster of islands, we were surprised to see that the Guna people are using every square inch of land for their homes and businesses. The Guna people are living the interesting mix of their traditional culture and the modern day.

We got up early to get on the first tender to the main island. From there, we searched for a boatman that we could hire to take us to one of the uninhabited islands for snorkeling. 

After walking from one end of the island to the other with no luck, I went into the “bar” and asked for help. Instantly we were taken to a local’s home to meet the man with the boat. A few moments later we were headed across the water toward very small island that looked and felt like a piece of paradise. We spent hours snorkeling around a ship wreck just off shore, walking all the way around the small island and having drinks on the beach.

Following our amazing day snorkeling in paradise, we rose early to be on deck as our ship entered the first set of locks at the Panama Canal.
While the new larger locks are open, our ship went through the old locks. We were on deck to watch the whole process as we passed through all three levels of locks to get into the Gutun Lake. The engineering that was completed over 100 years ago to connect the Caribbean with the Pacific Ocean is incredible. 


Once we reached the Pacific Ocean, we headed for Costa Rica. Over the next three days, we visited three different Costa Rica ports; Golfito, Quepos and Puntarenas. Each port offered similar experiences to explore the rainforests and wildlife.

Local boats came out to greet.

The people of Golfito offered us a very warm welcome as it was the first time Holland America has docked there. Locals came out of there boats to greet our ship. They even organized boats with a band and another with a dance troop as a special “surprise” for the ship passengers.

The ship was able to dock at their very small merchant port.

Once on land, we decided to explore the wildlife refuge on foot with our new friends, John and Gill Reeves. We discovered the wildlife refuge is not very close to the dock, but we made it by asking locals in our limited Spanish for directions. Hiking along the trails we saw thousand of leaf-cutter ants. We stopped for a long time to watch the amazing creatures carry pieces of leaves long distances through the forest. Click here to see a video of the leaf cutter ants at work. DSCN0484_Trim

The “secret” waterfall

At the end of a long trail we got to a gate where we met a local family. The young boy offered to lead us to a waterfall. We hiked further into the rainforest and through the river where there we no trails. It was an adventure but well worth the experience for just the four us.

 

Our 5 mile walk back to the ship was made a little tougher by the pouring down rain that soaked us to the bone. Luckily it was quite warm and we found a local bar where we enjoyed some shelter, some cold drinks and some local snacks. The bill for the four of us was $17 USD including a tip for the very sweet woman who owned and ran the bar.

The next day in Quepos, we went horseback riding in the rainforest. My luck with horses isn’t great and as expected, Carmel had a mind of her own. She liked to stop and have a snack and then go the opposite way as the other horses. Eventually we found a rhythm.  An hour into the ride we stopped for a swim.

We tied up the horses and hiked a bit up river until we got to a waterfall. It was small but gushing with a pool at the bottom. Some of the group stripped down to their swimsuits and jumped in. The grooves in the rock allowed us to climb up into the falls.

Toward the top you could sit on the rocks as the water flowed all around us. The water was refreshing and jumping from the top was great fun.

Puntarenas was our last port in Costa Rica. Our guide met us at the dock and we went on an all-day tour of the area with two other couples.

Here are some of the highlights from our day that included, a boat trip, hiking, a traditional lunch and much more.

After leaving Central America we sailed for two days before came to our second port of call in South America, Guayaquil, Ecuador. During those two days we past over the equator. As is maritime tradition for hundreds of years, there is a big ceremony for the crew as the ship passes the equator. Historically any sailors who were passing over for the first time had to complete several nasty “tasks” including crawling through trash and kissing fish. While the Maasdam cannot force the crew to crawl through trash, they did have a big ceremony on the back deck. Approximately 50 crew members participated in the celebration.

The next day we reached the Guayaquil. It is the largest city in Ecuador and is famous for being the gateway to the Galapagos Islands.


 

 

 

We chose to explore the city on foot rather than take a tour on a bus. The port shuttle dropped us off at Iguana Park. It is a very good place to see iguanas in the bushes, along the sidewalk and in the trees.

The neighborhood of La Penas

After snapping a few great photos of the iguanas, John and John joined us for a hike up to the top of the hill that boasts the lighthouse and the colorful neighborhood of La Penas. The climb of 444 stairs is worth it when you reach the top and see the view of the whole city.

 

Walking along the Malecon 2000

Following our same steps back to the bottom of the hill, we walked along the Malecon 2000 (waterfront promenade) and back to Iguana Park to catch the port shuttle back to the ship.

Two days at sea while sailing south will bring us to Peru. In our next post, we are excited to share some of the archeological and wildlife wonders that Peru has to offer.

South Africa to Florida to Columbia – Three Continents in One Week

The purpose of taking the flight from Johannesburg back to Cape Town was twofold. First, we found a great international flight that left from Cape Town. More importantly was that we had booked a day trip to go shark cage diving along the southern tip of Africa. After getting ourselves set up with a rental car and a little Bed and Breakfast in the small coastal town of Fisherhaven, we received some bad news. Unfortunately, some heavy winds were expected the next day and our excursion was cancelled. We were quite bummed but realize that it is all part of the journey. So, we came up with an alternate plan to make the most of our stay. Very near our Bed and Breakfast is the famous town of Hermanas. This town is internationally recognized for the “best coastal whale watching in the world.” Within moments of reaching the rocky coastline, we gasped as the southern wright whales jumped out of the water. It is the only time in my life I have seen the whales jumping out of the sea. We watched for over an hour as dozens of whales leaped out of the waves.

We had just one last day left in Africa. Not knowing when we would have the chance to visit this area again, we set out on the two-hour drive to Cape Agulhas. It is the very southern tip of the African Continent. Many people mistake the Cape of Good Hope for the southernmost point, but a 3-hour drive east from Cape Town will take you to the very small village of Cape Agulhas. There is a small park along the sea with a monument and a very large map of Africa on the boardwalk. Other than the old lighthouse, not much else is there. Visiting is mostly for the fun of saying you made it there. 

After stopping at the local grocery store for some sandwiches, we started making our way back toward Hermanas. The weather was overcast with a cold wind but we didn’t want to pass up the chance to see the whales one last time. We had some dinner along the promenade and said goodbye to the giant mammals of the sea. Hermanas is a wonderful place to visit if you are ever able to make the drive from Cape Town.

The next morning was our last in South Africa. Our flight was late in the evening so we had some time to make our way to the airport. Lucky for me, not far from Fisherhaven is a colony of African penguins at Betty’s Bay. This is a lesser known tourist spot for visiting with my favorite animal. The price is less than $4 per person and it is a lot less crowded than Boulder Beach. I was so excited to see the penguins once again and had the extra bonus of seeing some other wildlife along the coast as well.


Our last stop was our favorite restaurant in the world… The Hussar Grill. A steak and chocolate martini set us off on the right foot for our long journey back to Orlando, Florida.

Two long days of travel and we finally made it to the USA. We are blessed to have awesome friends that hosted us during our stay as well as took us to Disney’s Food and Wine Festival at Epcot. It has been such a long time since we done some of the amazing things Orlando has to offer. Thanks Melissa and Jennifer! Another great night we had in Orlando was having a pizza and beer with our friends, the Hitchcocks. We were happy to have a few days for some fun, catching up on mail and such as well as see some of our friends back “home.”

The time we had in Orlando was short and before we knew it we were on the road to Ft. Lauderdale. There we boarded the Holland America Line ship, Maasdam for a 34-day cruise to South America, through the Panama Canal, to Easter Island and onto the South Pacific. 

 

Our first port of call was Santa Marta, Columbia. It was the first Spanish settlement in Columbia and in the northeast tip of the country. The day we got there it was sooooo hot! We braved the heat and spent the day wandering the streets, looking at the shops, food stalls and visiting the Gold Museum. You know a day in the heat would not be complete without stopping for a cold local beer. $1 USD will get you an ice cold beer at any cafes along the waterfront street.

Before we wrapped up our day, we spend a little time looking in all the stalls at the local craft market. It is located two blocks off the waterfront street about a mile from the port entrance.

Our journey will continue into Central America…