Our search for Nessie

In the deep lies a creature – a creature of myth and legend – a dragon – a beast

The Loch Ness Monster.

Loch Ness at sunset

We reached Loch Ness, where this legendary creature lives.  We have all read the stories – the photos have been debunked.  People say that she never was here, or that she is long since gone (as the first sighting was in 565 A.D.).

So, looking for her is pointless – – – or is it?

The weather was perfect (19 degrees Celsius), the wind was calm, the sun was high in the sky.  I was sure that THIS was the time.  We joined the search aboard the Jacobite Warrior – a vessel equipped for the challenge.  With sonar reaching the depth of 750 feet on our journey, we crisscrossed the Loch with our eyes locked on the sonar screen looking for anything.  We waited and watched.  We watched and waited.  Nessie did not appear.  I’m not sure what went wrong – everything looked to be perfect for our historical viewing.  I guess it just wasn’t our day.

Falls of Foyers

The Loch is beautiful.  The mountains falling into the water.  For such a worldwide legend it was very peaceful and quiet.  We stayed on the less traveled West side of the lake by the Falls of Foyers.  The falls were beautiful as was the hike down to them.

FYI – The sun sets at 11:00 PM and rises about 4:15 AM this time of year so you have plenty of daylight to do your own search for Nessie.

Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness

 

The Highland Games

Traditional heavy events like the caber toss, hammer throw and tug-o-war; dance competitions, and piping – the highland games are a wonderful exhibition of all that is Scottish.   The following link is for a short part of the opening march.

Click here for – Highland Games Opening March

Photos tell the story better than I, so I will leave you with them.  Our next stop is to search for the elusive creature Nessie – at Loch Ness.

Caber Toss – object is to throw the caber (big ass tree trunk) and flip it over so the part the man is holding is facing straight out – judging is based on degrees off center if the thrower is able to flip it.
Putting the stone – played with a real stone. Just like shot put but the stone is 26 pounds vs 16 pounds
Hammer throw – a steel ball on the end of a stick weight of 22 pounds you spin and throw for distance.
Tug-o-war – This was the Grampian Highland Games 725 Kilogram tug-o-war championship.  One of  the only events that the competitors are not required to wear  kilts.
Winners in Yellow
Highland Fling
Highland Fling

Castles, a pint and a wee dram

Scotland has something for everyone.  The countryside is stunningly green, there are so many castles that even my wife is saying “no we can skip that one”, the pubs are just as you imagined they were 75 years ago, and it is the birthplace of Scotch whisky (no “e”  if you are in Scotland).

In the last 5 days we have been to 12 castles, 1 palace and an Abby to boot.  We have explored these castles and climbed to the top of the sometimes endless staircases.  The castles have been spectacular; the ones left in ruins leave everything to your imagination and the ones that are still standing are a gateway to another time.  We have enjoyed them all.

On our third day in Scotland we stayed in a fishing village at a pub with rooms.  The experience  was wonderful, we felt we were part of the “real” town.  The pub is where all of the town goes at the end of every day to talk and have a pint or two.  The pub was listed as one of the top rated in all of Scotland to get the “perfect pint”.  BTW – a pint in the UK is 20% larger than a typical US pint.  We loved it, and the drive home was just 20 yards away.

In my opinion, no visit to Scotland would be complete without sampling a ‘wee dram’ of uisge beatha or ‘the water of life’ …the name given by the ancient Celts to the fiery amber nectar now called Scotch whisky.  We toured the one that started it all -The Glenlivet.  The tour was fantastic and allowed us to see the entire distilling process and allowed us to try a few drams.

Our Scottish adventure will continue with a day at the Highland Games and our search for Nessie…

 

6,075.7 Kilometers

Yes, that’s 3,775.27 miles that Izzy drove through Spain, Gibraltar, Portugal, France, and Andorra.  We drove and watched the towns, the people and the sites.  We sang songs (always in perfect harmony), we made wrong turns that ended up to be great directions; we also made many wrong turns that ended in U-turns, in detours,  and once in the middle of a field (don’t tell Hertz).  We ended this 30 day segment where we began, in Barcelona.

The top items we learned :

  • Being in the city with the main attractions is great but having a car to drive to the outskirts saves approximately 50%
  • Road-side fruit stands always have the best fruit (yes the hill was that steep)
  • Ending the day with a deck of cards and a bottle of wine makes the day end perfectly
  • Aldi and Lidl are a travelers best friends
  • The car is never the perfect temperature
  • Don’t underestimate the minor sites – they can amaze you
  • A roadside picnic can be better than any 5 star restaurant
  • The off the beaten path hotels typically really want your business and it shows
  • Siri does NOT know everything

We are now in Scotland and have been having a blast.  Our new car – Scotty is doing great getting us around.  We will post very soon to give an update on our adventures.

Hello from Southern France and Andorra

Our Seat car,  Izzy, has taken us over 5,000 kilometers so far. Tomorrow we have to turn her in as we are headed to Scotland and Ireland on Tuesday. The past 30 days have been amazing. Our last few stops brought us through Southern France and into the small country of Andorra.

We spent the night in Bayonne, France. It was a small city on the river with cute shops, restaurants and a gothic cathedral. We walked around the city and took in the sites.

Next stop was Lourdes, France. It’s one of the 1,000 places to see before you die and we found out why as soon as we pulled in the city. There are hotels, glitzy signs, tourist shops and cafes like you have never seen before.

The draw for the city is the Sanctuary of our Lady of Lourdes (St. Bernadette). The legend goes that in 1858 a young girl named Bernadette had several “visits” from  virgin Mary telling her that water would come from the rock and she should drink it.  Since then, the catholic church has recognized her as a Saint and built a HUGE complex around the area where the “visits” appeared. Over a million people a year take a pilgrimage to this sacred site for healing. During our visit to the complex there was a ceremony and procession of people that came from all over the world to be healed by the water from the grotto. There are hundreds of people in wheelchairs, walkers and even a gurney. It was very interesting to witness. We would definitely recommend a visit to Lourdes, France.

From  Lourdes, we started our drive to the small country of Andorra. On the way we drove through the French city of Fiox, which has a beautiful castle on top of the hill. We stopped for an hour, hiked the long trail up to the castle and toured the very well preserved structure. During our visit Robert & I got to try shooting a cross bow. We both loved the castle and really enjoying the experience.

 

We finally arrived in Andorra to breathtaking views. We rented an apartment in the mountain village of el Tarter. We cooked dinner and enjoyed the view from our balcony.

 

The next day Robert wanted to take a hike. I agreed since he said it was rated “easy.” We started off on the very steep trail and continued walking uphill for 1.5 hours. We were not sure we were going to make it but then we came upon the lake. After such a tough climb we were so glad to enjoy a calm lunch at the lakeside.

  

Our Andorra adventure is coming to an end and we leave tomorrow morning for Barcelona. We’ll be saying goodbye to Izzy… but hello Scotland and a new rental car!

 

I should have been a goat herder

Okay, here are my reasons:

1- How cute are these guys, they bleat and walk around eating all day and the really cool ones wear the bell.

2- I could be here – In Basque country.  In the rolling hills and lush green pastures.

3- Besides the smell (which is not the most pleasant I have experienced) the country living, with the fresh air is fantastic.

4- And I can not over state this at all – – – FRESH GOAT CHEESE ROCKS!!!

Iberian Ham, fresh goat cheese, mushrooms, and carmelized onions – – – Need I say more?

 

We left Portugal behind and after traveling through Castile and Leon we found ourselves in an area looking more like Austria than Spain.  The weather had turned so instead of shorts and T-shirts we were wearing long pants and jackets.  It was 39 degrees on Monday morning – my Florida blood was not liking it one bit.  The sun did manage to come out and we hiked the mountains and enjoyed the sights.

We have traveled north and are currently in Bayonne, France.  Six more nights until we fly out of Barcelona and on to our next destination – Scotland and Ireland.  I will update the itinerary shortly.  We have to get out of the Schengen area of Europe – only 90 days out of 180 can be spent in the main continent.  Also you know what they have lots of in Scotland and Ireland?

 

Our drive through Portugal

We are sitting here at our hotel in the Douro Valley, Portugal.  Missy is researching our next stop and I am trying to concentrate on writing this entry.  I say trying because I can’t help but to look up from my laptop: in the shade of an olive tree overlooking the vineyard, listening to the birds – this is truly a place to remember.

Ok – focus.

Our first stop in Portugal was in the small town in the southern part of the county in Santiago du Cacem.  Population,  maybe 75.  This charming village was home to our guest house for two days where we spent our days at the beach.

The winding roads, to avoid the tolls, are what I would consider, less than 1 lane.  The lack of population is evident, passing town after town of 10-15 homes.

The birds here at the vineyard are competing on who can sing the loudest as they dart through the fruit trees.

FOCUS!!!!

Leaving small town life, we headed to Lisbon – the capital city.  The change was almost indescribable.  From having the roads and beaches practically to ourselves to a frenzy of city life.  The cars parked in every location – yes, even in the middle of the street.  In Lisbon we enjoyed the Sao Jorge Castel, and the beautiful squares in the city.

Driving north we went to the walled city of Obidos.  This magnificent city sits on top of a hill surrounded by ancient city walls.  The walls were tall and at times a little precarious. 

We walked the entire length of the city taking in the fantastic views – and the Ginja – served in a chocolate cup (cherry liquor).

In Porto we marveled at the hillside buildings and enjoyed staying in the city – Missy found a great deal for a city center hotel.  The car safely parked, we ventured out on foot.  The steep hills and STAIRS – I don’t know how many we climbed but lets just say it was at least 18.5 million.

That catches us up to now.  We are in what could be one of the most beautiful locations in the world.  Steep hillsides with grapes hanging on sheer cliffs.  The food, the wine and the location is out of a dream.  The driving however is a nightmare.  The quaint streets with only one lane that I mentioned earlier – picture that with no guardrail, and a sheer cliff on one side and a rock face on the other.  Our little Seat, we named Izzy (Seat Ibiza), was working so hard up the steep cliffs with blind corners.  The views are worth it – even if it does cause a little panic.

Missy has found our next spot so we can now just sit,  relax and listen to the birds – before we have to drive these hills to find dinner tonight.

Seville

Our 2 days in Seville were all we could hope for.  The rhythm of the Flamenco dance flows though the city – you cannot escape it.  The energy is intoxicating.  Seville takes all.

The Seville Cathedral is the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.  

The Cathedral is the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world and is the third largest church in the world.  In a word, it’s ginormous.

Next door to the Cathedral is the Real Alcazar – Royal Palace.  The palace is a labyrinth of rooms of spectacular craftsmanship. 

But the palace,  in my opinion, is second to the gardens.  The courtyards and gardens of the palace are magnificent, the blooms, the smells, the colors in every corner you look.  Our lunch of fresh bread and the largest pears you could imagine were peacefully enjoyed in the gardens.

The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza encapsulates the history of Spain’s traditional bullfighting.   The narrow streets of this fantastic city will captivate you as it has us.

 

As a note:  As with the rest of Spain – dinner starts at 8:30PM.  A quick stop at Aldi can make a fantastic meal for 2.

Our 5th country of our adventure is next – – we will visit Portugal.

 

Alcaucin and Cordoba

We have had the amazing experience of staying with some friends in a small Spanish Pueblo (town) of Alcaucin, located in the mountains just north of Malaga. The Pueblo is set into the hillside with narrow streets and all the charm one can hope for. We have truly enjoyed spending time with the Zartman family as well as seeing what is like for the locals. Below is a picture of all of us during our trip to Morocco this past weekend.

While staying with the Zartman family, we took a day trip to Cordoba. Upon arrival we went straight for the biggest attraction, the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. The current structure started construction around 784 A.D. It was built as a Mosque and was turned over to Christian rule in 1235 A.D. Then in the 16th century the church received the addition on top of the Mosque adding a Renaissance Cathedral nave.

I would highly recommend making Cordoba a stop on your next trip to Spain, even if it just to see the Mosque-Cathedral. It is very interesting and quite different any others throughout Europe.

Tip: Tickets can be purchased upon entry for 10 Euros per person. There is a ticket window which has a very long line. If you look to the left of the ticket window you will find the ticket kiosks. The machines only take cash but using this method will significantly reduce your wait time. You can also purchase tickets to climb the bell tower for 2 Euros per person. Those must be purchased from the counter directly in front of the bell tower entrance.

  

After exploring the Mosque-Cathedral for about an hour, we wandered the streets of the Juderia (Jewish Quarter) and had lunch in one of the cafes along the famous Patios of Cordoba.

Before heading to the car for our drive back to Alcaucin, we stopped to see the Roman Bridge. It is pretty cool to see as it was originally built in the 1st century B.C.

Our drive was beautiful through the mountains covered in Olive trees. Tonight is our last night with our friends and then we are off to Seville.

 

 

From Spain to Mororcco

 

Wow!!!  How time flies.  It has been so long since we’ve posted it seems like forever.  First of all, let me apologize.  If you looked at our RTW Itinerary page we should be somewhere else right now – but I am writing this from downtown Tangiers, Morocco.  My friend, David Zartman, and his family live in Spain and invited us to join them in Morocco for the weekend.  How could we say no?

Let’s go  back a little and tell you where we have been to catch you up to where we are now.

Granada:  Ahh the Alhambra, the palace and fortress complex originally constructed in 889 AD.  This beautiful complex is one of the most fascinating in all of Spain.  Unfortunately, when you travel without too many advanced plans you have to forgo some sites.  This was one of them.  When we walked up to the ticket booth they were sold out for the day.  We asked about buying online – yes, they can get us in on June 9.  What about waiting in line for stand by – yes make sure you are in line by 3AM.  Needless to say there is plenty to do in Granada without the Alhambra.

The Basilica of San Juan de Dios, the Granada Cathedral and the El Albaicin district of Granada filled our time allowing us to explore this bustling city.

Friday we drove to Tarifa, Spain; about a 4 hour drive.  We met up with the David and family and spent the night in this small beach village.  On Saturday morning we took the high speed ferry across to Morocco.  Let’s discuss high speed for a second – I do not believe that anything in Morocco is high speed!!!  To get on the ferry you must arrive approximately 1 hour in advance to wait in line even after you have tickets.  Once you are on the ferry you wait in line for the entire 45 minute ferry ride to get your passport stamped – one passport official for the entire ferry full of passengers.  One passenger told me that he once had to wait a hour after the ferry reached the other side of the channel to go through passport control.

Tangier is a modern city and very liberal by Muslim standards.  We saw many women without hijabs.  The city is large but the old town medina is very close to the ferry terminal, as was our hotel.  We enjoyed being back in Morocco exploring the medina filled with shops and stores.

On Saturday we went to the blue city of Morocco, Chefchaouen.  The entire old city is painted blue and is truly one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been in.  The reason for the painted city is rumored to be that the color keeps away mosquitoes.  Another theory is that the blue was introduced by the Jews when they took refuge from Hitler.  Now, I can only tell you  that the city is truly breathtaking.  Street after street,  down back alleys, even looking into peoples homes everything is blue.

 

On Sunday we will tour more of the Tangier area and then back to Spain.  I promise it will not be as long before our next post.

P.S.   I thought I posted this morning and I apparently did not.  Our ferry got canceled because of high winds today – so one more day in Morocco.