ForeverTravelers.com

Easter Island has long been the subject of myth, debate for historians and even a few alien conspiracies.  It has filled dreams of adventure of remote tropical places, full of unknowns which adds to its allure.  It is a bucket list for many (including both of us).  And – it lived up to the hype.

It took 5 days at sea to reach our destination of Rapa Nui  which the native name for Easter Island.  To say that it is remote is a gross understatement.  The nearest inhabited island is 1,289 miles away, the nearest town with a population over 500 is 1,619 miles away and the nearest point on any continent is South America at a whopping 2,182 miles. Yes, we were in the middle of nowhere.

The first inhabitants of Easter Island arrived from western Polynesia around 1200 A.D.  These first residents created huge stone statues, or moai, that are the source of debate even to this day.  The moai were carved to show the living faces of their ancestors.

The debate on the moai stems from the fact that most are from the Rano Raraku quarry and then transported to other places around the island.  This sounds simple enough but the moai are incredibly large and heavy.  The tallest erected moai was almost 33 feet high and weighed over 80 tons.  There also is distance, some of the moai had to be moved up to 11 miles – quite a feat for a culture that did not have cranes, trucks, or anything mechanical to move these giants.

We were fortunate to be able to tender in from the ship for both days of our stay, many cruise ships are unable to send any tenders at all due to rough seas – imagine coming all this way and not being able to land even for one day (one couple we met stated that this was their 3rd attempt at landing).  We took a two-day tour that covered the entire island.  As luck would have it our friends Gillian and John were on our same tour.

Our first stop was, in my opinion, the most breathtaking.  The Rano Raraku quarry is were 94% of all of the moai were carved.  When the local people stopped creating moai they just stopped – statues in mid construction, statues laying about, and statues in mid transfer – just stopped.  It was fascinating to see all of these huge moai in various stages of construction.  But why did they stop so suddenly?  The legend goes that in a tribal war, the ruling class lost and the lower class (quarry workers) won.  It is also believed that after the war all of the construction ceased immediately and even the erect moai were toppled over.  Several of the sites have been restored, starting in 1955, while many still lay in ruins.

Our next stops were just as amazing as we went to many of the sites were the moai are standing on their ahu, or platforms.

In touring the island and lectures on the ship we learned about another fascinating part of Rapa Nui – the Bird Man competition.  This “race” was to determine the dominant tribe of the island for the next year.  Each chief had a member of his tribe run the race. The chief of winner was to rule island for the following year. The race consisted of running down a hill, scaling down a 300 meter cliff, swimming 1 km through currents and sharks to a small island, finding an egg from a sooty tern bird and returning to the top of the cliff with the egg intact.  It sounds much easier than it looks as we peered over the cliff at the island below.

The mystery of the island, the awesome feats of engineering and artistry, as well as the incredible history and culture of the island has made our time on Rapa Nui one of my personal favorites of our entire time so far.  But, then again, the trip is not over yet…

 

 

Our journey continues south along the western coast of South America, we visited three Peruvian cities. Each offered something different and we learned a great deal about Peru’s history, culture and wildlife. The first stop we made in Peru was Trujillo. Prior to the cruise, we did not know much about the important place Trujillo holds in Peruvian history. After the lectures offered on board the ship and the private tour we took with a local guide, we are enlightened about the ancient cultures that once thrived in this very barren landscape.

After meeting our guide and driver on the dock, we wasted no time in going straight for the Sun and Moon Temples of the ancient Moche people. When most people think of Peru, Machu Picchu is the first thing that comes to mind. Of course, there were civilizations that thrived 1,000 years before the Incas. The Moche Culture (pronounced Mot-ché) lived between 100 and 800 A.D. and lived on the land that surrounds modern day Trujillo. The Sun and Moon Temples were constructed over several hundred years. The two temples sit on opposite sides of a valley. Historically the village would have been in valley between the two temples. Today, people can visit the Moon Temple as it has been excavated but the Sun Temple remains a solid structure to be viewed from the outside only. We arrived before the site was open for the day but our guide knew the guards who allowed us to enter early. It was wonderful because we had approximately 40 minutes to explore before anyone else arrived. Much of the wall paintings have survived all these years in part, because, as the years passed the Moche people buried their dead within the temple and then built on top of it. The grandeur cannot be caught in a photograph but here are a few to provide a visual of what an 1,800 year old Moche temple looked like. 

A trip to Trujillo would not be complete without a visit to the archeological site of Chan Chan. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the largest city from the pre-Columbian era in all of South America. It was the capital of the Chimor Empire from 900 to 1470 A.D. when they were defeated and incorporated into the Inca Empire. The city is believed to have been constructed around 850 A.D. Chan Chan is spread over 20 square kilometers and at its height had a population of 40,000 – 60,000 people. Today less than 20% of it has been excavated. The inner parts of the sacred temple and living quarters are open to the public.

Following our history lessons of visiting the sites of both the Moche and Chimor people, we visited the current day downtown of Trujillo.

The city center is Plaza de Armas, the Spanish foundation of Trujillo established in 1534. The main focal points are the Freedom Monument and Trujillo Cathedral. The colorful buildings that make up the square where once the mansions of the high-ranking officials. Today, many of the mansions are museums.

The final stop we made on our tour of the Trujillo area was Huanchaco Beach. The locals visit for the beach experience and the tourists visit to see the traditional reed boats used by fisherman for hundreds of years. The boats are still made in the traditional way using reeds that grow in fresh water. It is similar to a canoe but solid. The fisherman ride on top and fish with nets. As with most fisherman, they go out very early in the mornings. The boats came be seen any time of day as they are lined up along the shore for storage when not in use. Other attractions along the beach are restaurants and shops catering to both locals and tourists.

Puerto Callao, near Lima was our second port in Peru. Our ship was in port for 2 days allowing us a chance to explore Lima during the day as well as at night. We went to Lima six years ago on our trip to visit Machu Picchu and our friends Gill and John have also been to Lima. So, the four of us stuck together to see the sights of around the city. We used Uber to get us from place to place. Uber is very cheap in Peru and there are tons of Uber drivers, making the wait times for a ride very minimal. The highlights of our visit were The National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History, The Basilica and Convent of San Francisco (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Magic Water Circuit at night.

The museum is definitely worth a visit as it houses artifacts from thousands of years of Peruvian history. Many of the items on display were collected from the archaeological sites all over the country including both the Moche civilization and Chan Chan. The most interesting exhibits are the Inca mummies and the unusual shaped skulls. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures of these exhibits to share with you. 

The Basilica and Convent of San Francisco is famous for its catacombs. The building of the Basilica and Convent were completed in 1674. From its completion until 1808 more than 25,000 people were laid to rest in the catacombs. Upon the rediscovering in 1943, the graves were unearthed and the bones were organized into sections. This unique display is where the intrigue for visitors lie. On our English guided tour through the convent, we were able to see the library which looks like something out of a Harry Potter movie. It is only on display for a limited time. We also visited the Basilica where some of the bones in the catacombs can be viewed through gated staircases. This very interesting place is worth a visit when visiting Lima.

After stopping for some ceviche at a local restaurant, we walked the 2 miles to the Parque de la Reserva. While the park has been open since 1929, the city of Lima created a water and light show that debuted within the park in 2007. The show lasts approx. 15 minutes and happens several times throughout the afternoon and evening. The best viewing time is after dark where the colors appear brighter. Entrance to the park is about $1.25 pp. After watching the show, we visited all of the other 13 fountains at are displayed around the park. Each has its own colors, music and themes. 

Our final port in Peru was Paracas, a very small seaside village near Pisco.

Yes, you may have heard of Pisco – the place where the Pisco Sour drink was created. While having a Pisco Sour was high on our list, we started our morning with a boat ride out and around Islas Ballestas. This group of small islands is considered the “Galapagos of Peru.” Our small group of 10 people were the on the first boat out to the islands offering us spectacular views of the wildlife before the crowds arrived. Before we got to the islands, we stopped along the coast to see the Paracas Candelabra. It is well-known pre-historic geoglyph found on the north-facing dune in Pisco Bay. It is thought to be from around 200 B.C. The design is cut into the soil two feet deep. It has a height of 595 feet tall. It is in many ways similar to the Nazca Lines. There are many theories as to what the Candelabra represents and why it was put there – the most popular theory was to guide sailors into the bay.

Once we reached the Ballestas, we could see birds flying everywhere. The islands are home to over 500,000 seabirds including Humboldt Penguins, Guanay Cormorants, Terns, Pelicans and Boobies. Click here is to see a video of the Humboldt Penguins diving into the water. Diving Penguins Video . There are also many sea lions living along the lower rocky parts of the islands. One special moment happened as we watched a young sea lion come out of the water and climb up the rocks with his catch in his mouth. Click here to watch the video. Sea Lion Video The Islas Ballestas are within a protected marine area. The only people allowed to set foot on the island are the workers that come several times a year to collect the guano from the Guanay Cormorants that is harvested and used for fertilizer. There is so much to see it is almost overwhelming. Here are some of our favorite photos of the wildlife on Islas Ballestas.

On our way back from the islands our boat went through a throng of sea birds. Thousands of birds were feasting on the small fish and krill in the water. We have never seen so many birds in one place. Click the link to see the video for a glimpse of what we saw. Seabirds in Pisco Bay

Back on land in Paracas we wondered the boardwalk looking in the stalls. The village was celebrating international tourism day with Pisco Sour tastings, local dancers and street performers. One of the street performers was feeding a pelican which offered the chance to be quite close to it. Robert jumped at the chance to examine the shear size of it. He was like a little kid. I just had to snap a photo. 

 

We had a wonderful time participating in the festivities. We ended our day in Paracas with a cold Pisco Sour. This is a small seaside town that should not be missed.   

 

Over the next week we will be out to sea on our way to Easter Island. It has always been a dream to visit the island of mystery. We look forward to sharing some of the legends that surround that incredible island the locals call Rapa Nui.

Our 34-night cruise has been an amazing adventure so far. We have been traveling to some of the most remote parts of the world. In the middle of the Pacific ocean there is no internet and the places we have stopped along the way do not have internet that actually works. So, I apologize for our delayed posts over the past three weeks. Now that we have internet again, we are excited to share the highlights of our trip from Fort Lauderdale to Tahiti.

After leaving Columbia, we had two days at sea which brought us to the San Blas Islands belonging to Panama. The Guna people that inhabit the islands along the Caribbean coast of Panama. They are native to this area and have been living off the sea for hundreds of years.

As with many of the ports we have visited over the past month, very few cruise ships are allowed to port near San Blas. Passengers from our ship were taken ashore on a tender. As we rode toward the cluster of islands, we were surprised to see that the Guna people are using every square inch of land for their homes and businesses. The Guna people are living the interesting mix of their traditional culture and the modern day.

We got up early to get on the first tender to the main island. From there, we searched for a boatman that we could hire to take us to one of the uninhabited islands for snorkeling. 

After walking from one end of the island to the other with no luck, I went into the “bar” and asked for help. Instantly we were taken to a local’s home to meet the man with the boat. A few moments later we were headed across the water toward very small island that looked and felt like a piece of paradise. We spent hours snorkeling around a ship wreck just off shore, walking all the way around the small island and having drinks on the beach.

Following our amazing day snorkeling in paradise, we rose early to be on deck as our ship entered the first set of locks at the Panama Canal.
While the new larger locks are open, our ship went through the old locks. We were on deck to watch the whole process as we passed through all three levels of locks to get into the Gutun Lake. The engineering that was completed over 100 years ago to connect the Caribbean with the Pacific Ocean is incredible. 

Once we reached the Pacific Ocean, we headed for Costa Rica. Over the next three days, we visited three different Costa Rica ports; Golfito, Quepos and Puntarenas. Each port offered similar experiences to explore the rainforests and wildlife.

The people of Golfito offered us a very warm welcome as it was the first time Holland America has docked there. Locals came out of there boats to greet our ship. They even organized boats with a band and another with a dance troop as a special “surprise” for the ship passengers.

The ship was able to dock at their very small merchant port.

Once on land, we decided to explore the wildlife refuge on foot with our new friends, John and Gill Reeves. We discovered the wildlife refuge is not very close to the dock, but we made it by asking locals in our limited Spanish for directions. Hiking along the trails we saw thousand of leaf-cutter ants. We stopped for a long time to watch the amazing creatures carry pieces of leaves long distances through the forest. Click here to see a video of the leaf cutter ants at work. DSCN0484_Trim

At the end of a long trail we got to a gate where we met a local family. The young boy offered to lead us to a waterfall. We hiked further into the rainforest and through the river where there we no trails. It was an adventure but well worth the experience for just the four us.

 

Our 5 mile walk back to the ship was made a little tougher by the pouring down rain that soaked us to the bone. Luckily it was quite warm and we found a local bar where we enjoyed some shelter, some cold drinks and some local snacks. The bill for the four of us was $17 USD including a tip for the very sweet woman who owned and ran the bar.

The next day in Quepos, we went horseback riding in the rainforest. My luck with horses isn’t great and as expected, Carmel had a mind of her own. She liked to stop and have a snack and then go the opposite way as the other horses. Eventually we found a rhythm.  An hour into the ride we stopped for a swim.

We tied up the horses and hiked a bit up river until we got to a waterfall. It was small but gushing with a pool at the bottom. Some of the group stripped down to their swimsuits and jumped in. The grooves in the rock allowed us to climb up into the falls.

Toward the top you could sit on the rocks as the water flowed all around us. The water was refreshing and jumping from the top was great fun.

Puntarenas was our last port in Costa Rica. Our guide met us at the dock and we went on an all-day tour of the area with two other couples.

Here are some of the highlights from our day that included, a boat trip, hiking, a traditional lunch and much more.

After leaving Central America we sailed for two days before came to our second port of call in South America, Guayaquil, Ecuador. During those two days we past over the equator. As is maritime tradition for hundreds of years, there is a big ceremony for the crew as the ship passes the equator. Historically any sailors who were passing over for the first time had to complete several nasty “tasks” including crawling through trash and kissing fish. While the Maasdam cannot force the crew to crawl through trash, they did have a big ceremony on the back deck. Approximately 50 crew members participated in the celebration.

The next day we reached the Guayaquil. It is the largest city in Ecuador and is famous for being the gateway to the Galapagos Islands.

 

 

 

We chose to explore the city on foot rather than take a tour on a bus. The port shuttle dropped us off at Iguana Park. It is a very good place to see iguanas in the bushes, along the sidewalk and in the trees.

After snapping a few great photos of the iguanas, John and John joined us for a hike up to the top of the hill that boasts the lighthouse and the colorful neighborhood of La Penas. The climb of 444 stairs is worth it when you reach the top and see the view of the whole city.

 

Following our same steps back to the bottom of the hill, we walked along the Malecon 2000 (waterfront promenade) and back to Iguana Park to catch the port shuttle back to the ship.

Two days at sea while sailing south will bring us to Peru. In our next post, we are excited to share some of the archeological and wildlife wonders that Peru has to offer.

The purpose of taking the flight from Johannesburg back to Cape Town was twofold. First, we found a great international flight that left from Cape Town. More importantly was that we had booked a day trip to go shark cage diving along the southern tip of Africa. After getting ourselves set up with a rental car and a little Bed and Breakfast in the small coastal town of Fisherhaven, we received some bad news. Unfortunately, some heavy winds were expected the next day and our excursion was cancelled. We were quite bummed but realize that it is all part of the journey. So, we came up with an alternate plan to make the most of our stay. Very near our Bed and Breakfast is the famous town of Hermanas. This town is internationally recognized for the “best coastal whale watching in the world.” Within moments of reaching the rocky coastline, we gasped as the southern wright whales jumped out of the water. It is the only time in my life I have seen the whales jumping out of the sea. We watched for over an hour as dozens of whales leaped out of the waves.

We had just one last day left in Africa. Not knowing when we would have the chance to visit this area again, we set out on the two-hour drive to Cape Agulhas. It is the very southern tip of the African Continent. Many people mistake the Cape of Good Hope for the southernmost point, but a 3-hour drive east from Cape Town will take you to the very small village of Cape Agulhas. There is a small park along the sea with a monument and a very large map of Africa on the boardwalk. Other than the old lighthouse, not much else is there. Visiting is mostly for the fun of saying you made it there. 

After stopping at the local grocery store for some sandwiches, we started making our way back toward Hermanas. The weather was overcast with a cold wind but we didn’t want to pass up the chance to see the whales one last time. We had some dinner along the promenade and said goodbye to the giant mammals of the sea. Hermanas is a wonderful place to visit if you are ever able to make the drive from Cape Town.

The next morning was our last in South Africa. Our flight was late in the evening so we had some time to make our way to the airport. Lucky for me, not far from Fisherhaven is a colony of African penguins at Betty’s Bay. This is a lesser known tourist spot for visiting with my favorite animal. The price is less than $4 per person and it is a lot less crowded than Boulder Beach. I was so excited to see the penguins once again and had the extra bonus of seeing some other wildlife along the coast as well.

Our last stop was our favorite restaurant in the world… The Hussar Grill. A steak and chocolate martini set us off on the right foot for our long journey back to Orlando, Florida.

Two long days of travel and we finally made it to the USA. We are blessed to have awesome friends that hosted us during our stay as well as took us to Disney’s Food and Wine Festival at Epcot. It has been such a long time since we done some of the amazing things Orlando has to offer. Thanks Melissa and Jennifer! Another great night we had in Orlando was having a pizza and beer with our friends, the Hitchcocks. We were happy to have a few days for some fun, catching up on mail and such as well as see some of our friends back “home.”

The time we had in Orlando was short and before we knew it we were on the road to Ft. Lauderdale. There we boarded the Holland America Line ship, Maasdam for a 34-day cruise to South America, through the Panama Canal, to Easter Island and onto the South Pacific. 

 

Our first port of call was Santa Marta, Columbia. It was the first Spanish settlement in Columbia and in the northeast tip of the country. The day we got there it was sooooo hot! We braved the heat and spent the day wandering the streets, looking at the shops, food stalls and visiting the Gold Museum. You know a day in the heat would not be complete without stopping for a cold local beer. $1 USD will get you an ice cold beer at any cafes along the waterfront street.

Before we wrapped up our day, we spend a little time looking in all the stalls at the local craft market. It is located two blocks off the waterfront street about a mile from the port entrance.

Our journey will continue into Central America…

Sorry for the delay between posts. We have been without internet for some time.

Many people have visited Zimbabwe by way of Victoria Falls, but few people continue the journey beyond city of the magnificent falls. Over the course of a week, we were lucky to see some of the great wonders Zimbabwe has to offer.

Backing up a few days, we crossed the border from Botswana to Zimbabwe. It is more of a process due to the requirement of a $30 visa. A few hours later we arrived in Victoria Falls (our third time in three years). A trip to Victoria Falls town is not complete unless you visit the Falls National Park. We did so with our whole group. It was such fun to experience with those seeing it for the first time. The falls never cease to amaze!

The next day, I opted for a very early morning game drive with my new friend Emily. We were lucky enough to see a 2-week-old baby rhino with its mother. The baby was adorable and running around just like toddlers would.  

 

 

While I was at the game drive, Robert jumped at the chance to go white water rafting with some friends from our group. Nine of them ventured out into the Zambezi River with excitement to take on some of the toughest rapids in the world. 

Then after 20 days with our new friends, we had to say goodbye to all but two. Alex and Sarah stayed on with us as we continued to explore Zimbabwe.

Venturing farther into Zimbabwe, we headed for Hwange National Park. It is the largest of all National Parks in Zimbabwe and is famous for the large quantity of elephants that call the park home. Our terrific guide, Ian, picked us up in the early afternoon for a game drive. On our drive we saw many animals from our safari vehicle. We also stopped at the viewing tower to watch the animals around the waterhole. After several hours, Ian took us back to camp where our Nomad guide was cooking dinner. The evening would be prove to be full of surprises.

Just before Ian surprised us by taking us for a night drive, we spotted a leopard strolling through our camp. After a brief close call, we jumped back in the safari truck with Ian and went to a different area of Hwange. Doing a game drive in the complete darkness with nothing but a spotlight, is an incredible experience. It’s not a time you can take pictures, you just have to enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the night. Within the first 10 minutes of entering the park, we saw another leopard stalking across the road. Wow, we have waited 2 years to see leopards and then saw 2 in one night! But the highlight of the night was when Ian turned off the lights when we neared a group of elephants. The only way to see them was the light of the moon. It was absolutely awesome! Seeing African wildlife never gets old!

The next morning, we took down our tents and packed the truck. We had a four-hour drive broken up by a stop in Zimbabwe’s second biggest city, Bulawayo. Our guide allowed us some time to explore the down town. Then we continued on the road to Motopo National Park. It is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site because of its intensive protection of Black and White Rhinos. Ian, our safari guide from Hwange, made the drive to Motopo as well. He is an expert in Zimbabwe wildlife and is very passionate about the protection of the Rhinos. He was excited to take us on a walk into to the bush in search of rhinos. After climbing up to the top of a rock hill, he spotted the rhinos in the distance. Our group hiked directly to them and had the incredible experience of being very close to them in the wild. Being within 10 feet of such a moment we will not soon forget. Click here to see a video of the rhinos close up. 

Leaving the wildlife parks behind us, our next stop was the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. The historic capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe dating back to the late Iron Age is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is famous for the intricate stone work completed on the top of the hill as well as soapstone bird carvings that have been sold and traded all of the world before being returned to their home country.  It is the largest structure of its kind in Africa, second only to the Pyramids of Giza. It is an intriguing place to visit offering insight into the historic culture of Zimbabwe.

The bonus of the Zimbabwe Ruins was all the wildlife that was hanging around. My favorite was the rainbow colored lizards hiding between the rocks.

Our last major activity before ending our 25-day tour was to cross the border between Zimbabwe and South Africa. This crossing was the longest and most difficult. The lines are extremely long and the people waiting are forced to wait in the heat of the sun. This is border crossing that takes more time. It was interesting to people watch during the wait. The locals were carrying their belongings on their heads from one country to the other.

After finishing at the border, we went a few hours farther until we reached Johannesburg, South Africa. We stayed one night and then took the short flight back to Cape Town.

The final days in Africa will be posted soon.

Our African adventure rolled on as we cleared the Namibia-Botswana border. We stayed the night in Ghanzi near the villages of another San (Bushman) tribe. The next morning several members of the San tribe took us on a bush walk and showed us the plants they use to cure ailments like back pain, headaches and upset stomachs. They were extremely friendly and communicated with us by using gestures and a translator. None of them spoke English. It was a very interesting and enjoyable experience.

Immediately following our bush walked, we jumped into the truck with great anticipation for the Okavango Delta. Several hours in the truck and 30 minutes in a wagon pulled by a tractor took us to a lodge on the west side of the Okavango Delta. We spent the next two days exploring the flora and fauna. In the evenings we took a sunset cruise with serene views over the water and beautiful birds resting in the reeds.

During the day, we were taken by speedboat deeper into the delta where we switched to mokoros (wooden canoes). The man navigating the mokoro is called a poler. He uses a very long pole to push the boat forward through he reeds. The mokoros have a flat bottom which allows them to glide over the vegetation underneath. During our two hour adventure, we meandered through the reeds following the hippos trails from island to island.

While the Okavango is considered to be one of the last great wildernesses of the world, we only saw a small piece of it. Our only disappointment was we were not taken farther into the delta where we would have seen more wildlife.

Upon leaving the lodge we drove 4 hours to the village of Maun. Even though it is not a huge city, they do have an airport which focuses on small plane flights over the Okavango Delta. We didn’t hesitate to take a flight in a six-seater plane for $80 per person. The 45-minute flight offered us an incredible view of the wildlife that the Okavango Delta has to offer. We hope to have the chance to return one day and venture farther into the center of the wilderness.

After the flight, we were exhausted. Our guides prepared a huge dinner for us which gave us some energy again. So we went with about half our group to a local Botswana bar. That was a true experience with a local DJ for the music, with the drinks and register behind bars. The locals even joined our group dance circle. It was a super fun!

Our next stop in Botswana is what we consider to be the best game view spot in all of Southern Africa – the banks of the Chobe River. We are blessed that is was our second trip to Chobe National Park and it was just as amazing as we remembered. The first half of the day was spent on a game drive.  We saw a tremendous amount of wildlife including female lions with their cubs, a dead elephant being eaten by vultures and a giraffe trying to hide behind a tree.

In the evening we went on a river cruise along the Chobe River where the wildlife is plentiful. If you’re lucky, the boat can offer a closer to view to some of animals than the safari vehicle. In our case, the elephants were right along side of our boat pulling up roots for a late afternoon snack. Click here to see the elephants eating. DSCN9900

Just as the sun was about to set, our boat captain spotted two elephants in the water. He took us over to them to watch the gentle giants as they are very good swimmers. But, as we got closer it was obvious that the two elephants were mating. It was quite amazing to see.

Once the elephants moved back to shore, we enjoyed the rest of the sunset in our beautiful surroundings.

The day in Chobe was over when the sun sunk below the horizon. We returned to camp for a meal around the campfire and some shut-eye in our tent.

Next is another border crossing from Botswana to Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls here we come.

 

Vast spaces of nothing but sand continued to be the landscape as we drove through the deserts of Namibia. We spent the night in a desert camp with nothing around us but wild animals and the most awesome view of the stars. The milky way shines so vividly. The Southern Hemisphere offers such a different view of the stars, often seeming much brighter than in the Northern Hemisphere. At night while we took in the stars near a water hole, we watched in complete silence as more than 40 zebras came to drink. The sounds of the animals was incredible even if the zebras seemed to be full of gas.

Before heading to our next stop, we met a Bushman guide who took us farther into the desert and told us about life for the nomadic San (Bushman) people who once lived in the area. He also introduced us to some of the local wildlife, including the white lady spider.

After leaving our desert camp, we made a stop in the seaside town of Walvas Bay. It is port city and a popular holiday destination for wealthy Europeans. The streets are lined with expensive homes owned by Europeans. It is a huge contrast to the rest of Namibia. Our purpose for stopping there was to see the stands of flamingos that call the coastal waters of Walvas Bay home.

Then we set off to the city of Swakopmund. It is a tourist friendly city on the sea with a population of approximately 44,000 people. The city center boasts restaurants of many different cuisines as well as several shopping streets. It is a typical stop for people visiting the western part of the country.

A two-night stay in a lodge was a welcome reprieve after a week in a tent, moving to a different location each day. During our free day, we took advantage of our time by heading to the city center in the morning with our new friends Bas and Stephanie from The Netherlands. We explored the shops, had lunch a nice café and took in the view of the city from the pier.

In the afternoon, a large part of our group opted to take a quad bike (four-wheeler) tour through the sand dunes along the coast. We sped up and down huge dunes feeling the adrenaline build with each steep descent. Some were more fearless than others but toward the end we all had the throttle as far as they would go.

In the middle of our trip we made a stop to do some sandboarding and sand sledding. The dunes were so much bigger than what we did in the UAE. It was so much fun but the climb back up to the top was tough. The only casualty was the sand burn hole Robert got in the knee of his pants. Overall it was an amazing day!

Leaving the comfort of the lodge, our truck headed for the rock hills of Spitzoppe. This area is comprised of massive granite rock formations rising above the desert up to 700 meters high. The San people who lived in the area up to 800 years ago left their mark by the rock paintings that still remain today.

Our group was offered a bush walk with a guide who gave us information about the rock paintings, as well as many of the plants that were used for medicinal purposes. During our bush walk, the temperatures started to rise and we were thrilled to return to our adventure truck to have lunch in the shade.

Another very early start at 5:00am, put us on the road toward the village of Opuwo. As soon as we pulled into the village, an overwhelming feeling came into the group that we had reached the “true Africa.” Opuwo is home to people from several different Namibia tribes. Each have a unique way of expressing their culture through their clothing. There were so many things to see as we passed through the village center is was hard to take it all in. We were able to snap a few photos of the people we saw.

In the afternoon, we had the opportunity to visit on of the small local Himba village. As time has passed and some of the tribe members have inter-married, their village is now home to families of three different tribes (Himba, Herero and Damara). They have opened their village to a small number of tourists in order to share their culture as well as raise money to send their children to school. While it was a bit awkward meeting them in the first moments of our visit, the women were welcoming and eager to interact with us. We were offered a rare glimpse into the traditional lifestyle of a Namibian tribe.

Did I mention that we got up very early during most of our trip? Well, it was up at 5:30am again. The whole group was so excited because our day was to be spent doing a game drive through Etosha National Park. It is the largest National Park in Namibia and home to many of Africa’s wildlife species. The waterholes in Etosha are filled with wildlife. It is the best place to sit a take in the magnificent animals. The only drawback to the park is that the waterholes are really far apart and due to the foliage, it is hard to see wildlife in between.

The distance to cross the park is huge and we spent over 12 hours in the truck that day doing both game viewing as well traveling to the other side. In all we traveled almost 700 kilometers in one day and arrived much later than expected at a camp outside the park. Timing was not on our side, as we missed our deadline to leave the park and were locked in by security. They required us to have an escort out of the park and took us to a gate headed the wrong direction. It was quite a day. After setting up our tents in the dark, the group was exhausted and finished our night by eating dinner at 10:30pm.

Our extremely tough day was made worth it in the last 1 hour of our game drive in Etosha on our second day. We saw two male leopards roaming around the waterhole. Incredible!! We have been on dozens of game drives and have only seen a leopard once prior to this. Our high position on our large truck allowed us to see over the other safari vehicles and watch as the leopards paced around the waterhole. It was the perfect way to end our game viewing adventure in Etosha National Park.

Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia, was our last stop before heading for the border. A local guide offered us a walking tour around the downtown in which we learned some interesting facts about how this very young country started to build itself after its independence in 1990. Most interesting is that North Korea offered them financial and physical support in building some of their government buildings. It wasn’t until many of the members of the UN threatened to pull trade agreements from Namibia did they end their partnership with North Korea. Windhoek has some great history to learn about but the city is not a great tourist destination, rather a place of transport via their international airport.

The next morning, we had to say goodbye to six members of our group. We hated to see Marinella, Stefania, Ilena, Annika, Bas and Stephanie all standing alongside the truck as we climbed in. It was sad waving bye to all of them as we pulled away. We hope to have made some lifelong friends. We miss you Stephanie and Bas!

 

Another six group members joined us as our journey continues into Botswana.

 

Our second Nomad adventure tour began as we left Cape Town very early in the morning on the truck with 23 people that would become one big family. As we drove to the area known as Table View, the sun started to rise. We stepped out of the truck to snap a photo of Table Mountain as the colors of the sky changed. It is a little known vantage point for tourists, but well worth the 30-minute drive to get there.

After watching the sunrise at Table View, the beautiful scenery past through the truck window as we left Cape Town behind us. Our group stopped for a wine tasting at Spice Route Wine Farm located in Paarl, located about one hour east of Cape Town. It was a treat to get on last stop at a South African winery before continuing on the road to Namibia.  

We arrived just before sunset at a campground on an orange farm. We were excited (and a bit nervous) for our first night tent camping in Africa. The canvas tents are nice and we were given sleeping pads which is a huge bonus. The only problem was, it was extremely cold! We spent the whole night shivering and begged our guide to take us to buy blankets the next day.

A full day of driving brought us to the campground for our second night along the Orange River, on the South African side. We enjoyed a delicious dinner around the campfire before retiring to our tent. Sleeping that night was a much better experience since we were now equipped with extra blankets and a small pillow.

In the morning we joined part of our group for a canoe trip down the Orange River. Since the water is very cold there is not any large wildlife in the river such as crocodiles or hippos. We had a peaceful float while taking in the beautiful mountains along the South African and Namibian border. During our canoe trip we saw a lot of birds, including the African darter. 

After our canoe trip we went just around the corner to pass through Namibian immigration. Crossing the border on land was simple with no lengthy line to contend with. As we started our trip into Namibia, we had an all-day drive on bumpy roads that led us to Fish River Canyon. The group jumped out of the truck ready to walk the edge of the canyon as the sunset behind the ridge. Fish River Canyon is one of the largest canyons in the world, looking in some ways similar to the Grand Canyon. However, since Namibia’s climate is so dry, there is virtually no water in the “river” below. At the end our walk, we joined back up with our guides that had cooked a yummy dinner on the side of our truck. We ate at the picnic tables as the sun went down.

Rising early is a regular thing on an African adventure tour. The next morning was no exception. Our alarm went off at 4:30am and we had taken down our tents, eaten breakfast and gotten in the truck by 5:30am. Our destination was Dune 45 in the Naukluft National Park, part of the Namib Desert.

The landscape is nothing but reddish sand as far as one can see. We climbed the 80-meter-high Dune 45 as the bright orange sun started to peek above the horizon. Atop the dune was a perfect place to watch the colors change with the rising sun. We descended the dune and had breakfast in the desert along side of our truck.

A bit farther into the Naukluft National Park are the salt pans of Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. We were taken deeper into the desert on 4×4 trucks and then hiked in about a mile farther. Reaching the salt pans, we realized why it was such a special location. The white of the salt from the dried-up lakes that long ago where found in the area is a vast contrast to the red sand of the dunes. Left in the middle of the salt pans are dead trees that have remained standing for many years. The trees are now protected and no one is allowed to touch them. What an amazing place to see!

The desert lands of Namibia go on for miles and miles with nothing to see except for sand. Sometimes we would drive for hours and never see another car on the road.  We even got out of the truck to take pictures in the middle of the road. The terrain changes a little for sand to rock and then rough dried up dirt. The colors of the desert are beautiful and different from any place we have been.

Our long bumpy rides in the truck continued as we made out way to the Tropic of Capricorn.  We stopped to stretch our legs and snap a group picture. After a 30-minute break, we jumped back in the truck to complete our drive to city of Swakopmund, Namibia.

Our adventure will continue as we quad bike through the sand dunes…

It is our third year in a row to return to the wine region of South Africa. After traveling around the world, I can honestly say it is my favorite place. There are many reasons why. Some of which I can describe as breathtaking scenery, first class restaurants, beautiful vineyards and one of a kind experiences. What I can’t quite put into words is the feeling I have when drinking a glass of Pinotage (South African grape varietal) and enjoying a five-star dining experience while taking in the view. It was the perfect place to celebrate my birthday!

 

Once we decided to come back to Africa during our world tour, we set aside a full week to visit the winelands. Located a half hour east of Cape Town International Airport is Stellenbosch. Another half hour farther east is Franschhoek. The entire area around and in between the two is the wine region. We chose to stay in Franschhoek which is a much smaller community but considered to have the highest quality food and wine South Africa has to offer. The cottage we rented for the week was on the edge of a wildlife reserve. It was a special treat to wake up each morning to see the Zebras, Springbok and Wildebeests just outside of our window.

During our previous trips to Stellenbosch we visited many beautiful wineries for wine tastings and a few meals. This time we took a different approach. We searched for the unique wine experiences offered by many of the wine farms. Here are the ones we enjoyed:

Our favorite wine experience of our visit was a private cellar tour and wine blending and Rickety Bridge. It was top notch from start to finish. Our personal wine guide provided us a tour of the wine making process, the cellars and then walked us through each step of the blending process.

And a little secret… the whole experience for both us was R600 – $44.63 USD and we got to keep the two bottles we made.

 

We would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the Franschhoek area.

The morning of our last day in Franschhoek we made a reservation to stop at Vergenoegd Low Wine Estate. It is the last vineyard before the highway back to Cape Town. The Vergenoegd Low Wine Estate has some unusual workers – Indian Runner Ducks. They have over 1,700 ducks on the farm who work in the vines as well as do a daily “duck parade.” We arrived at 10:30am in time to see the duck parade. Click here to see the parade – IMG_2884 .

Immediately following the parade we got a chance to feed the ducks. That was crazy as the ducks were stepping on your feet, squaking at us and pecking for food all around us.

After the interacting with the ducks, our private guide poured us a taste of wine and walked us out to the vines. There we were able to see the ducks at work eating bugs and snails from beneath the vines. As we walked with our guide through the vines, we tried a few more of the estates wines. This experience is “Wine in the Vine.” It was excellent!

We rounded off our last day with lunch at Asara Wine Estate. Their Bistro offers a large deck with an outstanding view of the mountains.  The food was excellent.

 

Tomorrow we are off on our Nomad Adventure Tour to Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and back to South Africa. It’s going to be an adventure…

 

Very early in the morning (approximately 4:00am) we were picked up in Tetebatu, Lombok and taken to the airport for our 6:30am flight. As the morning progressed no word was given as to when our flight would board. Time continued to pass until we finally started boarding the tiny propeller plane at 8:45am. The distance is only 100 miles, so a little strange to take a flight but it was our only option since the ferries were all cancelled. What should have been a short domestic flight ended up being a seven hour journey. We were excited to spend our last few days in Indonesia returning to the first place we visited in Asia six years ago.

As soon as we entered the Ubud area we could see that tourism has continued to increase since our last visit. Ubud is the center of tourism in Indonesia made famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. Since that movie was released in 2010, tourism has doubled and the area caters to tourists. However, for most people it remains the quintessential Balinese experience. For us, it is much like going to any major tourist destination offering a fun atmosphere and lots of activities but not the authentic cultural vibe we look for. On one’s first trip to Bali, it is definitely worth a 2 – 3 day visit.

While there are a few medium size hotels, most tourist accommodations are in bed and breakfast, guesthouses or homestays. We stayed at a guesthouse that was more like a small hotel with a beautiful pool, great rooms and a yummy breakfast.  We were presented with a fresh coconut drink upon our arrival. The walk from Nayoman Sandi Guest House, where we stayed, was about 0.7 miles into Ubud center.

Ubud’s main streets are lined with shops, artist studios, restaurants, spas, tourism agents and fruit stands. There is a large tourist market in the city center with locals selling hundreds of souvenirs. We enjoyed walking around the market to see all the things that are for sale as well as people watching. 

As with the rest of Asia, if you want to buy something be prepared to bargain without being shy. The locals always quote something outlandish and you can settle on about 50% of what they originally offer and sometimes as much as 70% less. We bought just a few things as we don’t have much space to take things along with us.

During our four day stay, we took advantage of the cheap spa offerings available and had 2.5 hour treatment for approximately $17.00 each. It was wonderful!

We also hired a driver for a day to take us to some of the sites in the area that we did not see on our previous trip. We spent 7 hours touring temples, seeing another volcano and climbing a rice terrace.

The Holy Springs Temple Complex or Tirtha Empul, consists of many buildings and pools where visitors can take a dip in the water for a spiritual healing. The temple was built in 962 AD and has since been used as a sacred Hindu place of worship.  We watched as people lined up to “cleanse” themselves. In other parts of the temple we watched as offerings were presented to the Hindu gods.

A few things to note about taking a tour from Ubud.

• There is a difference between hiring a driver and a guided tour.  It’s important to clarify before finalizing a price.
• Bring a sarong or large scarf on the tour. This applies to both men and women. It is required to cover your legs all the way to your ankles to enter the temples.
• Each place charges a small fee for entrance. Usually 15,000 INR (approx. $1) per person. Make sure to take cash as no one excepts credit cards.

On our last day we had a chance to make traditional Balinese offerings at our guesthouse. The wife of the owner demonstrates to any of the guests that wish to learn. The offerings are made bamboo leaves, flowers and grass. We tried our best but they were far from perfect. Once completed they are offered in temples or to anything you may be thankful for. We left ours on the steps of our bungalow which is very common practice in Bali.

After an incredible month in Indonesia the time has come for us to say goodbye to this diverse country. We enjoyed our last fresh blended juice on the patio of our bungalow.

We were very happy to have a chance to visit the island that holds a special place in our heart. Six and a half years ago we were married on the black sand beaches of Bali. One day we will be back again!

Over the next 2 days we have 33 hours of travel including 4 international flights to get from Bali to Cape Town, South Africa.  Stellenbosch Wine Region here we come!