Earthquake on July 29, 2018 – Lombok, Indonesia

A picture of us after the earthquake yesterday.

As you may have seen in the international news, there was a large earthquake in Indonesia on the morning of July 29th.  Currently we are on the island of Bali. While we were woken up yesterday morning by the shaking of our building, we are completely fine and there is no damage to the area in which we are staying. The epi-center of the earthquake was approximately 100 miles east of here on the island of Lombok (north of where we just came from). It registered as a 6.4 magnitude with an after shock of 5.7 magnitude. Please keep the people of Lombok in your thoughts and prayers.

We have received many texts, calls and emails from our friends and family checking on us. Thank you all for your concern. All is well!

Rice, Waterfalls and Handicrafts in Lombok, Indonesia


Through the wake of our boat, we could see our bungalow on Gili Gede getting smaller in the distance. The boatman dropped us off on the beach where a car

Mu homestay bungalow

was waiting to take us into the center of Lombok. After a two and a half hour drive, we reached the area of Tetebatu.  It is a lesser known tourist area with a few guesthouses and homestays to accommodate travelers. Our driver dropped us off on the side of the road near a small alley, pointing and saying “that way.” We took our luggage down the alley, around the corner and up into a garden where we found our bungalow. Mu and his family were very gracious hosts during our entire stay. We were lucky that Mu was also able to be our tour guide. He offered us two full days of private tours for a very reasonable price.

Us with our host and guide, Mu

The morning of our first tour day, we set out of foot through the local neighborhood and into the rice fields. We followed the footsteps of the farmers walking on the ledges of fields. Most them only wide enough to put down one foot at a time or sometimes walking along the irrigation canals.

We explored for hours, while Mu gave us a lesson in the process of rice farming. After his lesson we have a greater understanding of all the work that goes into growing rice, the differences in the kinds of rice grown and how it is harvested. The communities around Tetebatu are some of the best places to see rice grown all year round because each farmer starts planting rice at a different time. They do this to spread out the water source. There isn’t enough water available for everyone to plant at the same time so they rotate. Farmers grow three crops of regular white rice or two crops of sticky rice per year. We had an opportunity to meet many of the locals in the fields during our trek. One of the farmers even cut up some fresh coconuts and let us enjoy them in his shaded hut.

After walking about 8 kilometers we came to a large stream. We followed Mu up the steam and through the canyon using some ladders and railings made of bamboo to get to a waterfall. The water was very cold but we braved it anyway.

Continuing our walk a short distance from the Tetebatu Waterfall, we reached the dense forest home to black monkeys. It was like entering a whole different world. We took a rest while watching them swing from tree to tree. We were happy to know that the black monkeys are not aggressive and do not want to interact with visitors.

Another 2 kilometers of walking led us to a Warung (a restaurant serving local dishes). After a good meal of fried noodles, we were exhausted. Mu and his friend took us back to our bungalow on scooters. Thank goodness!

We took a rest upon our return and in the late afternoon we got the chance to roast fresh coffee beans the traditional Lombok way with Mu and his mother. It was an awesome experience following all the proper steps:

Once we had the powder we mixed it with water and enjoyed the fruits of our labor.

Day two of our tetebatu private tour was on scooters. Robert got a 30 second lesson on how to drive one and we were off. As were driving we came across a group of locals harvesting in one of the rice fields. Mu stopped and took us over to watch the process. The people are so friendly and were thrilled to have us there, even giving us a chance to join in. The rice grains are removed from the stalks by banging bundles of stalks against a large piece of wood. As you can imagine, rice grains fly everywhere but are gathered on a tarp that is laid out over the field. Local people come to help the farmer harvest and as payment they get to take the stalks home to feed their cows. Click the link to watch the process.  20170220_102704

The next several hours were spent going from village to village meeting local women. We had the opportunity to observe and sometimes participate in the making of Lombok handicrafts. Unlike other countries, the handicrafts from Lombok are not made in factories but rather by local women in their homes. We were welcomed by the ladies to watch them while they made sarongs, processed tobacco, made pottery and weaved bamboo bags.

Since this area is not full of tourists, it was a unique environment to experience what the women do in their everyday lives.

 

On last stop of the day we hiked to see the beautiful Benang Stokel Waterfalls. This is an unusual site because it consists of two water falls side by side. In rainy season it sometimes spits into three waterfalls. It is not as grand as many we have seen in our travels but the setting is beautiful and the double falls is breathtaking.

 

 

After just 3 days in Lombok, our stay was at an end. It was one of the most authentic cultural experience we have had on our journey so far. It is long way to get to Tetebatu but worth the trip.

Our journey continues to Ubud Bali with a 6:30am flight since the ferries are cancelled due to 20 foot waves. Will the flight be better than a boat ride?

Gili Islands, Indonesia

Off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia lie several islands. There are two groups of them. There are three islands in the northwest – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. On the southwest side of Lombok, are many small islands, the largest of which is Gili Gede. The word Gili is pronounced “Gilly” and means small. Each of the Gilis can be reached only by boat. After our amazing stay on the west coast of Bali, we took a 90 minute ride on a small boat from Amed to Gili Trawangan. Arriving on the beach was almost a shock because of how different the island was from where we had come from. There are crowds of people, horse buggies, bike riders, many boats along the beach, men trying to sell tours, souvenir vendors on the beach and bars that line the beachfront street. We located our hotel just up the street from where we were dropped off on the beach. It was right in the middle of all the action.

View of the street in front of our hotel.

The Manta Dive Hotel where we stayed was wonderful. They offer all levels of scuba diving and training on site. After walking the main road from along the beach we had a better grip on what the vibe of the island was.  As few things we discovered: 1) We were by far some of the oldest people there. Most tourists are in their early twenties. 2) It is a party island. The restaurants and bars offering live music in the evenings as well as drinking games and drink specials. 3) No motorized vehicles are allowed on the island.  Horse carts and bicycles are used for transportation. 4) Gili Trawangan must be great for snorkeling as most of their activities are based around seeing the marine life.

Since we aren’t really the “party all night long” type of people, we opted to make the most of the beautiful beaches and marine life. We jumped at the chance to take a 6 hour snorkel trip around all three Gili Northwest Islands for $14 USD per person.  During our trip, we enjoyed four different snorkel spots and got off the boat to visit both Gili Meno and Gili Air. The other two islands are much more chill with very little commercial business on them. Gili Air has a small shopping area near the beach and a few guesthouses for overnight guests. While it was nice to see the other islands, the snorkeling was the best part.

Yes, I took this picture! I can’t believe we had a chance to be that close!

The area is known as one of the best places in world to swim with sea turtles in their natural habitat. Even knowing that, we were amazed at the opportunity we had to be so close to them and see so many at one time. My favorite spot was actually a dive spot were the water was close to 40 feet deep. Because the visibility is so good, we could still see the bottom, but wasn’t great for photos. However, we were able to see up to six turtles at one time.

During our snorkel trip we also saw the underwater statue off the coast of Gili Meno. It is a piece of art that was put there for visitors and now attracts not only snorkelers but growing coral and many tropical fish. The statue can be seen by swimming from the beach or when dropped off by boat.

 

We ended our day of snorkeling at our last stop at the “Fish Garden”, off the coast of Gili Air. While there isn’t much coral, there were tons of fish swimming all around us. The snorkel trip is a must do when visiting the northwest Gili Islands.

 

On our last full day on Gili Trawangan, we walked to the southwest side of the island. It was amazing how all the craziness and chaos of the main tourist area just drifted away the farther we went. While there are still resorts and restaurants on that part of the island, it is so peaceful.

It is the part of the island we would chose to stay at if we come back to Gili Tranwangan. The beaches are clean and the atmosphere is relaxed. We spent the whole day just lounging on the beach. Robert got a massage from one of the locals that is set up on the beach and I was content to read a book and enjoy the view. Just before sunset, we found a seat at the Paradise Sunset Bar to watch the sun sink below the horizon.

Hula Hoop Bungalows

The next morning we were all set to board the fast ferry to Gili Gede but we were informed that all the fast ferries were cancelled. The company we bought the ferry tickets from set up alternate transportation. Which meant that we were ferried on a very small boat to Lombok, then took a private car two and a half hours south and then boarded a local fishing boat to our secluded resort on the cliffs of Gili Gede.

The view from our bungalow

Gili Gede is off the southwest coast of Lombok. It is still an “unknown” tourist destination. There is one small resort, our bungalows and a few small guesthouses on the island. There is a population of approximately 1,000 locals that live and work on and in the water around the island. There are no shops, restaurants, tourist vendors, etc. We ate every meal at the Hula Hoop Bungalows. All of our activities were done from the resort as well. It was the most amazing five days!

Our first day we took an all day private snorkel trip to two of the islands. The visibility was awesome and we even swam with another sea turtle.  The coral reefs around the islands were incredible with so many different kinds and colors. We encountered some interesting marine life during our snorkel trip including two eels (one was a striped snake eel) and a large clam.  Since there were very few tourists in the area, we had the entire area to snorkel all on our own.

Our private snorkel boat

Our hotel packed a fried rice lunch, which we enjoyed in a island shelter.  Our guide picked fresh coconuts and cut them open for us to sip the coconut water straight from the shell. When we finished digging out the fresh coconut, we threw them to the cows who live on the island. They loved them. What a wonderful day.

Another day we rented kayaks and paddled to one of the uninhabited islands in the bay, Gili Layar. We walked the beach and found some very interesting creatures that washed up on shore; a yellow lobster type creature, a sea slug, a huge rotund star fish and a spotted eel. It was such fun to be the only ones walking the beach and hunting for unusual things.

Local lady salting fresh fish

The other days we explored the island, walked through the local village, got a massage and relaxed in the shade. Every night we watched the sunset over the water illuminating the shape of the Mt. Agung volcano on the island of Bali. We could not imagine a better place to spend a relaxing week. The people in Indonesia are extremely nice, especially the staff of the Hula Hoop. They treated us like royalty. We can’t thank them enough for our amazing stay. It truly was paradise.

The sunsets were some of the most beautiful we have seen anywhere in the world.

We are leaving paradise, aka Gili Gede, for the island of Lombok.

Volcanoes, Snorkeling and Civet Poo – Bali, Indonesia

There are a few reasons for us to excited to be in Bali.

1- This was our first time back since we were married on this island 6 years ago.

2- Beds are a good thing

3- A little down time is a great thing

4- Okay, it’s Bali – I don’t think I need any more reasons.

We chose to stay in a more remote area as the area by the airport is mostly a party zone with nightclubs and bars, not the true Bali experience.  After our 2 AM arrival and an hour long wait to go through passport control, we had someone waiting for us to take us to an airport hotel to sleep.  Our short stay in Denpassar was our first bed in 21 nights so to be fair it was magnificent.

We planned on going to the far western area of the island but the reports of Mount Agung being active had us worried.  Our driver put these fears to rest when he told us “it’s okay, mountain is sleeping”.  To put this in to perspective Mount Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii in 79 AD, Mount St Helens erupted in 1980, Mount Agung last spewed enough ash to shut down all air traffic, on Tuesday – – – –  Okay, it’s sleeping—let’s go.

We were glad we did.  As Mt Agung, as promised, was sleeping the entire time we were at the shores in the town of Amed.  Amed is a small fishing town that has a few guest houses that cater to mostly divers.  We stayed at the BBQ Guest House in our own private bungalow, complete with a day bed on the front porch. Our time in Amed was spent relaxing on the beach, snorkeling, kayaking, watching the locals make salt, and going out on a traditional fishing boat to catch Mackerel.

Snorkeling in Amed was some of the best we have ever had with tons of fish and the clarity was incredible. I felt like Jacques Cousteau witnessing the abundant sea life.

We left for fishing under the cover of darkness in our 3 person boat with outriggers for stabilization.  As we reached the open ocean the outriggers worked – kind of.  The fishermen do not use a rod or reel, just a roll of fishing line and a baited hook.  The fishing was poor, but the views were outstanding.

We were fortunate enough to be able to go to an Indonesian  coffee tasting.  This tasting had many different kinds of coffees and teas, but most famously the Kopi Luwak coffee.  Yes, the same Kopi Luwak that was discussed in the movie Bucket List.  For those who may have missed this movie, 1 – watch it – it’s a great movie, and 2 – Kopi Luwak is made from coffee cherries which have been eaten and passed through the digestive track of the Asian Palm Civet.  So in a word – we drank Civet poo, and liked it – the coffee was wonderful.

Our time in Amed ended as we reluctantly left the island of Bali. We boarded a small boat to bound for the tiny island of Gili Tranawan off the coast of Lombok.

Tropical Queensland, Australia – Daintree Rainforest and The Great Barrier Reef

Our final days of our road trip in Australia took us for more adventure and fun in the sun. After leaving Townsville, we drove the 6 hours north to the Daintree Rainforest and camped for the night in a caravan park created from an old mining town. The owners of the park were some of the nicest people we have met. They took the time to show us where to find some of the beautiful birdlife they have in the area. I know… surprise more wildlife! The theme will continue we our travels go on. Hiking just before dusk allowed us to see some very cool birds. My favorites were the Rainbow Lorikeets and the elusive Tawny Frogmouth Owl.

The following morning we drove to the east side of the Daintree Rainforest to hike to the Mossman Gorge. The Wet Tropics area, including the rainforest and Mossman Gorge are on the list of World Heritage Sites. In order to get to the trails near the gorge, one must purchase a ticket for the shuttle bus. The ticket to the shuttle is the only cost required for a visit to the gorge. There are no cars allowed to drive through the area between the welcome center and the gorge because it is Aboriginal land. The shuttle drop off is at the beginning of the trails. We saw people hiking and swimming along the gorge. We walked the three kilometer path to experience the dense and expanse of the rainforest.

Along the path there were very few wildlife encounters other than a wild turkey and some wild pigs. The Mossman Gorge was captivating with the water rushing past.

Mossman Gorge

At the conclusion of our hike we stopped for a picnic lunch. Soon after, the skies opened and it poured down rain. That put a damper on our afternoon plans to further explore the rainforest. There is much to see in the Daintree Rainforest as well as the visitors center and the town of Daintree. We drove through the rain until we reached the coastal town of Port Douglas. Instantly we were thrilled to have gotten the tip from our Australian friends to visit this lovely town. We found a free parking spot on the downtown shopping street and enjoyed the afternoon popping in and out of shops. After being in Port Douglas for the afternoon we wished to stay the night but the only two caravan parks in the area were completely full. That was a bummer because Port Douglas is the kind of town you want to stay a while in.  So much to our dismay we had to jump back in the van and head toward Cairns before dark.

The drive south is along the coast and the rain had ceased. We were able to secure one of the very last unpowered spots at a beach side campsite 20 miles north of Cairns along Ellis Beach. The place was packed but the view from our campsite awesome. The other campers were all set to be there for several months. We enjoyed the evening along the beach by watching sunset and playing some cards.

Since Ellis Beach isn’t a town just the coastline, there are alcoves along the road to pull off and take a trail to the white sand beaches. We did just that the next morning and spent hours laying in our handy “air sofas” we have along with us.

It was just us, the palms trees and the ocean waves. It was the perfect day at the beach.

Our last two nights were spent in a super packed caravan park in Cairns. It was the only place we spent more than one night on our entire road trip in Australia. We spent the extra night there because we wanted to take the boat trip to the Great Barrier Reef.

After some research, we discovered that the winds near Cairns have been very heavy over the past several months causing the seas to be very choppy and the water churned up, causing pour visibility. Therefore the farther away from land the better the visibility of the reef. Being careful to chose a boat trip that goes to the outer reef, we selected the company Down Under Dive. They have new boats with great facilities and a good lunch. We left the Cairns port at 8:00am. The trip to the outer reef takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. Within the first 20 minutes people were already sea sick. Remember when I asked “are your prone to sea sickness?” Well, I am! Knowing that fact ahead of time, I had taken sea sickness medicine and was wearing my wristbands that steady the equilibrium. Thank goodness because at least 75% of all the passengers had gotten sick by the time we made it to our first snorkeling spot. It was not pretty. Even the people that joked before we left that said “they don’t get sea sick,” we regretting it by the time we made it there. Of course, Robert was one of the lucky ones. He never felt the slightest bit sick.

Our words of advice should you get the chance to visit the Great Barrier Reef; do not under estimate the possibility that you may get sea sick. Always be overly prepared. You don’t want the sea sickness to ruin the experience.

The snorkeling was exciting with lots to see but the waves were so choppy that it was exhausting trying to swim around. Robert and I spent as much time as we could snorkeling. And since neither one of us felt sick, we got more time than most in the water. The visibility was not as good as the last time we snorkeled the Great Barrier Reef but was still an awesome experience.

The city of Cairns is much larger than you expect. They have a beautiful esplanade along the waterfront with fountains and picnic areas. As well as many shops and restaurants that cater to tourists. It’s a great place to visit and to experience some of the amazing water activities that can be done there. It is the most popular place to visit the Great Barrier Reef. However, the waterfront is not conducive to swimming or enjoying a day in the sand.

If given the chance to visit north Queensland, take it. Weeks can be spent exploring the tropical coastline, the rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. When deciding about where to stay, opt for the small town of Port Douglas, instead of Cairns. They offer all the same tours with smaller groups. You will be glad you did. But, don’t forget to make reservations.

Well, that concludes our amazing Aussie adventure. Thanks to all that offered suggestions about where to stay and visit. Australia is an amazing country. We look forward to returning for more adventure. We are off on a red-eye flight to Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia. Can’t wait for the calm, relaxation and to sleep in a bed!

6076.2 Kilometers of camping in Australia

That’s 3775.6 miles for those not quick with the conversion.  That is slightly further than Miami, Florida to Seattle, Washington (on 2 lane roads, no Interstates).  That is how far we drove our trusty van in Australia.  I know we still have another post for Australia (some awesome places in the final days) but we have had a fair amount of questions about the drive, the van and camping.

Our van, a Toyota Hitop, was our transportation, our kitchen, bedroom, and when raining our living room.

The drive was, in a word, long.  The quality of roads is not to U.S. standards and if you didn’t figure out from the title – Australia is big.  The Toyota was a 5 speed stick, so Missy was not able to drive.  We could drive approximately 400 Kilometers on 3/4 tank of gas.  We spent $729.08 in gas over the entire trip (I know, I may be a little anal on keeping logs).

Pancakes at the camp kitchen

As Missy said earlier we used an app called Wiki Camps to find different sites on our route.  We could camp for 48 hours with no power plug-in.  This used a battery for the fridge and lights and our van carried 35 liters of water.  We preferred trying to only use unpowered sites ever other day for fear of the 48 hours being a maximum.  The unpowered sites ranged from a park with public toilets and that is the only amenities offered to sites with access to hot showers, gas grills, and full camp kitchen.  The powered sites typically had access to hot showers (one made us pay 1 dollar for a 5 minute shower), camp kitchens and clean toilets.  On a few

Camping in Northern Queensland, a little crowded but what a view.

occasions we had a powered site that had a private bathroom and shower for each site — I know, pretty fancy right?  In the south most camp sites were ghost towns as it was very cold, but as we traveled north the campsites were more and more crowded – until at the end we actually had a difficult time finding a site with vacancy.

During our time we were able to enjoy a few camp fires – (five fires, six matches – my dad should be proud), cook fantastic food (in the van, in the camp kitchens, and on the fire), memorize every song on our road trip play list, see some amazing scenery, see some unique animals, meet some great people, spend time in our 54th country/7th continent of this wonderful journey, and in all of that we never once got lost (This one I have to take Missy’s word on – I would  drive and she would always say she knows exactly where we are – – – I wonder…..)

Our 21 days of camping in Australia was wonderful, we saw so much more and experienced so much more than if we just chose to fly to a few spots.  Next time I think we will drive the other way around the country through Western Australia and the Northern Territories, this will be a little more challenging as we need a 4×4 and take a little more time.  Always leave something to come back for.

 

 

 

Driving the Queensland Coast – Bundaberg, Airlie Beach and Townsville, Australia

Woke up to a beautiful day in Bundaberg Australia, a small city of 70,000 people. Located slightly inland from the coast and along the Burnett River. The city is known for producing two things Australians love – Ginger Beer and Bundaberg Rum. We spent the morning visiting both Bundaberg Rum Distillery and Bundaberg Ginger Beer Factory.

Bundaberg Rum Distillery with the sugar mill smoke stacks in the background.

Australians have nicknames for everything. Their rum is no different. They affectionately call the distillery and the rum itself “Bundy.” The Bundaberg Rum Distillery has been recognized all over the world for both the rum they produce as well as the Best Distillery Experience. There is an awesome museum that details the history of rum in Australia and around the world as well as how “Bundy” is produced today. After visiting the museum we were taken on a guided tour of the distillery including watching the cane train pull in, visiting the molasses vats, getting a view of the distillers, a full explanation of each of the products they make and ending with two drinks of our choice.  

The cane train
Bar at the end of the tour

Given the opportunity to try a glass from a $180 bottle of “The Best Rum in the World “,  we took it. “Bundy” Blenders Edition was grabbed the top honor of world’s best rum in 2015 and their Master Distiller’s Collection won best dark rum in the world in 2017.   We ended the visit with a good ol’ Dark and Stormy (rum and ginger beer) drink.

Just one mile down the street from “Bundy” is the Bundaberg Brewed Drinks Factory. The Barrel is their visitors center which features a store, a factory experience and a free tasting bar. We opted to do only the taste test of all 13 drink favors. While they are best known for their ginger beer, their other favors are great too. We really liked the guava, blood orange, pineapple-coconut and apple cider. It is definitely worth a visit when passing through.

Rockhampton has statues all around of the different types of cattle they breed.

Following our morning in Bundaberg, we drove for what seemed like forever through very rural, but very beautiful areas. We made a quick stop in the “Beef Capital of Australia”, Rockhampton. This town is internationally known for their high quality beef and is where you cross the Tropic of Capricorn.

Continuing to push our travels making for a long day, we pulled into Airlie Beach just before sunset. The weather was much warmer and therefore the number of tourists significantly increased. We were hard pressed to find a park with space for the night but we managed to squeeze in to a non-powered packed site. It was worth the craziness of the caravan park because the next morning we signed up for a 2.5 hour jetski  tour of the Whitsunday Islands. Both Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands are very popular vacation spots for people from all over the world. It is an awesome beach town and one of our favorite stops in Australia. Vacationers can spend days there, never running short of fun things to do. Our jetski tour gave Robert his first taste of the excitement and power of the rapid glide across the open water. The Whitsunday Islands are beautiful but a bit beat up from the 2016 Cyclone that caused tremendous damage to the area. We had a blast jetting from one island to the next.

South Mole Island in the Whitsunday Islands

After an amazing morning on the water, we drove that afternoon and the next morning until we reached Townsville. While we weren’t able to stay there for an extended period of time to enjoy all the fun activities, we did visit the Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary. Just a few miles south of Townsville, the sanctuary offers visitors a chance to see and interact with many types of Australian wildlife. Most of the animals that live within the sanctuary were rescued from road accidents or because they were a danger to humans. When purchasing an entrance ticket, they offer a large bag of animal food for $2 that can be used throughout park. We picked one up and made great use of it during our visit. As I have mentioned before,  I LOVE animals. The Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary was a great opportunity for me to be up close and person with many of them, including cuddling a koala!

Throughout the afternoon, the rangers offer presentations about the different animals. Immediately following you can touch or hold many of them which is included in the price of the ticket. Of course, holding a koala is extra but it was worth it! I got to the cuddle the koala for several minutes. Maybe you’re wondering if it smelled… the answer is no. The animals are very well cared for and “Tami” was very well behaved. Fun Fact – Queensland is the only state in Australia where it is legal to hold a koala and they have strict rules about how much human interaction they can have per day/week.

Below are some other animals we saw during our walk through the sanctuary.

Our visit was a blast. Billabong Wildlife Sanctuary is a wonderful time for the whole family.

As we near our last 5 days of our road trip through Australia, we will venture into the Daintree Rainforest, Port Douglas, Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef. Are you prone to sea sickness?

Central East Coast, Australia – Hunter Valley and the Sunshine Coast

Our road trip continued up the east coast north of Sydney. On suggestion from my brother, Michael, we steered the van toward Hunter Valley Wine Region. Located just 2 hours north of Sydney, it is a popular place for Aussies to go to on their free time. We drove in on a Saturday morning and although there were crowds there were also some cool events going on too. We stopped at several vineyards for tastings.

View from Audrey Wilkinson Cellar Door

My research pinpointed some that have received awards and such. Audrey Wilkinson vineyards has a beautiful cellar door (tasting room) with gorgeous views overlooking the valley. The tasting was not free but was waived with the purchase of a bottle to take home. With a few cellar door stops in between, we ended our day of tasting at McGuigan Wines. They are best known for their internationally award winning, Semillon. It is a white wine we had not tried before. It was light, crisp and refreshing. We had a chance to taste several other wines there as well. Their McGuigan Farms Shiraz was wonderful.

After a full day of wine tasting we picked a holiday park near Diamond Beach. The next day we spent all the daylight hours we had driving north along the coast. We stopped to rest in some awesome towns along the way including , Stuart Beach, Coffs Harbour and Emerald Beach.

Our final stop of the day was at a beachside campsite in Yuraygir National Park. It was the best of all the places we stayed so far because our spot was right on the beach. There were tons of kangaroos hopping around the area, as well as on the beach. Many different types of birds were singing in the trees. We made a campfire in the evening and roasted marshmallows. Breakfast overlooking the sunrise on the beach with kangaroos was a huge highlight for us. We even got to see a joey in the kangaroo pouch!

 

We had a leisurely morning and then continued driving north a second day until dusk, making it to the city of Tweed. This time we stayed at a caravan park, a completely different experience than the last place but we had flushing toilets and showers. With a refreshing night of sleep and a hot shower to get us started, we drove up to Mt. Tamborine (just west of Gold Coast).  On top of the mountain there are many activities for travelers of all ages. My foot was giving me some trouble so I wasn’t able to do all I wanted. We visited the Cedar Creek Vineyard for a tasting. On their property they also offer caves tours to see glow worms as well as a frog hollow with local frog species.  There are also several lookout points and picnic areas to enjoy as well.

Meat Pies

In the early afternoon we continued north toward the small town of Yatala. Our friend Clo told us to make a stop there if we could. It is Queensland landmark making meat pies for over 130 years. When we arrived, the parking lot and the street parking all around the area was packed. It wasn’t hard to tell that people just love these meat pies. The lines were out the door and all the seats were full. We didn’t let the lines scare us away. The service is quick and their prices are very reasonable. We went for the full Aussie meal – meat pie, smashed peas, potatoes and gravy. It was so yummy!

Bellies full we drove farther north around the outskirts of Brisbane. The rain started again in the afternoon and kept on for almost 2 days. It didn’t allow us much of a chance to enjoy the outdoor activities around Brisbane or farther north at Noosa Heads. Along the drive we saw many surfers taking advantage of the heavy waves. When we arrived in Noosa Heads in was pouring down rain. We stopped for the night and hunkered down in our campervan to wait out the rain.

The next morning, we ventured into the town of Noosa Heads. It is a cute beach town with a lot to offer for people looking for a great place to enjoy the beach. The streets near the water offer cafes and shops.  Noosa National Park is along the coast and has a chalk board display of which animals were spotted on the trails and where to find them. That is why were went there in search of Koalas. Unfortunately, they were all hiding due to the cold weather and the rain. We hope to have a chance to return and stay a while in Noosa Heads someday.

Having little to do in the pouring down rain we just continued driving north. We made a detour along the way to check out Hervey Bay. Another coastal town, this one is known for the whales that come to breed in the bay. The rain let up a little so we stopped a few times along the water and watched for whales. We weren’t able to see very far in the rain so we didn’t spot any. The height of the whale season in Hervey Bay is August when the locals say you can see them the whales from the shoreline.

We ended our day at a campground in Bundaberg. A small community on the Burnett River is known for two things… Rum and Ginger Beer.

 

Southeast Coast of Australia – Pebbly Beach, Kiama and The Blue Mountains

We pulled into Murramarang National Park right at dusk hoping to spend the night at the at the park beach camp. However, there was no one there and the ranger station was closed. Watching for kangaroos on the move we drove a short distance to a caravan park. Luckily the owners were in and we were able to get a campsite for the night, even though we were the only campers there. We were greeted by kangaroos. They were all over the park. After eating dinner, we had a visit from a friendly brushtail possum.

A welcoming kangaroo

I woke up early the next morning really excited to see the kangaroos at the beach. While packing up our campsite, a large pandemonium of Australian King Parrots flew into the trees. Their bright red and green feathers are so vivid. We stood there for a while just watching them all eat the berries out of the trees above our heads.  The parrots finally took off in search of another great food spot and we took off to Pebbly Beach.

Located inside the Murramarang National Park along the coast is a beautiful beach where kangaroos like to spend their time. We counted 14 kangaroos the day we visited.

It is a very cool experience to wander with the kangaroos while feeling the cool ocean breeze on your face. While kangaroos cannot swim, they do soak up the sand and sun. There is a long-standing myth in Australia that kangaroos can swim because someone took a picture of one enjoying the surf along the beach. That myth has since been discredited, but hope we caught your interest!

Two hours farther up the coast is the coastal town of Kiama. There is much to do and see in that area including Shoalhaven Coastal Wine Region, beautiful beaches and the Kiama Blowhole. On recommendation from our friend Di, we stopped at Crooked River Wines just south of Kiama. The wines are very good and a little different from Adelaide Hills because of the sea air on the grapes.

View from Crooked River Vineyard

After a tasting, we continued toward Kiama and stopped for the night at a beachside campground. We set up our campervan and went for a walk on the beach. We had a view of a gorgeous sunset and the lighthouse.

Kiama Big Blowhole at low tide

 

On our way north in the morning we stopped on our way out of town at the Kiama Blowhole. The Big Blowhole is a narrow opening that has been carved into the rocks over time by the crashing waves. When the waves slam against this particular opening, water shoots into the air. Under the right conditions (high tide and heavy waves), the blowhole shoots water up to 25 meters (82 feet). We didn’t see it at high tide but it was still pretty awesome.

A longer drive of 4.5 hours headed inland and northwest took us into the Blue Mountains. Located to the west of Sydney, it is a huge tourist destination for day trips from the city. It was the first time on our road trip that we ran into any traffic or tourist congestion. We did our best to avoid the toll road but got on one by accident. We are still struggling with how to pay it since there are no toll booths and our plate is not registering on their website. It’s one of those traveler issues we just have to figure out. We have been to Sydney before as well, so we didn’t go into the city but kept on the outskirts toward the Blue Mountains. The scenery is spectacular and there are tons of hiking trails, some that end at waterfalls.

From the top of the Blue Mountains
Wentworth Falls

We took a hike to view the Wentworth Falls. The falls weren’t that impressive but the drop into the canyon was. The view of the whole landscape of the Blue Mountains was awesome. After hiking we visited the most famous attraction in the Blue Mountains, The Three Sisters. It is a rock formation of three peaks that stand alone on the edge of the canyon. There is no charge to go to the viewing platform or take on any of the hikes but the parking is $4 AUD for the day. The place was packed. We enjoyed seeing the Three Sisters but it didn’t take long. A 40-minute stop is about all you need.

The Three Sisters

When we left Kiama that morning our intention was to camp somewhere in the Blue Mountains. What we found out as I researched during our drive was that there are very few places to stay in the mountains and most of them require self-contained vehicles (bathrooms on board). We don’t have that so we were forced to drive several hours northeast until we were quite far north Sydney. A little panicking later I located a holiday park that would take us in after hours. We were so thankful and happy to pull in around 8:00pm. We were a spectacle for the permanent residents when we backed our van off the end of the concrete pad in the dark. Quick thinking and problem solving helped us build a ramp using our firewood to get the van back on the concrete pad. Luckily no harm was done and we were finally able to call it a day. It’s all part of the adventure!

Next we are headed north into the Hunter Valley Wine Region.

The Great Ocean Road and Phillip Island, Australia

Rain continued to follow us as we left Mt. Gambier and drove to Warrnambool to start our drive along the Great Ocean Road. As the raindrops fell we just kept hoping for an hour or two no rain. There are many places to stop and hike along the coast. The recommend spots are indicated by the  information signs along the drive.

We got our wish for a dry sky as we wound around the twists and turns that lead to Loch Ard Gorge. Excited to see the beautiful red cliffs, we jumped out of the car and followed the pathways to the lookout points. The wind was strong and the waves were heavy. The break in the rain offered us a dramatic view.

Loch Ard Gorge

Just a few kilometers further north is the most famous point along the Great Ocean Road, The Twelve Apostles.

There is a huge parking lot, a visitor center and pathways that lead to the view point. There is no charge to park or go to the viewpoints. We walked all the way to the end of the pathway stopping at each lookout to get the best view possible. It was amazing! For those that have seen the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland, it is equally fantastic.

The Twelve Apostles

The Twelve Apostles have been on our bucket list of years, a we weren’t disappointed. I could have stood out there for hours just watching the waves crash against the rocks but the torrential rain was headed our way again.

 As we drove, I researched where we would stop for the night using an app that was recommended to us by an Aussie couple we met in Vietnam. It is called WikiCamps and it can be purchased on the app store for $4.99 USD. It has been an awesome tool because it not only offers and interactive map and list of campsite but also points of interest, tourist stops, rest areas, picnic spots, etc. The app has reviews from other travelers, comments about how much things cost and what amenities are offered at each stop. We stopped for the night outside of Geelong (southwest of Melbourne).

 

The next morning, the rain had stopped and we were excited to do some hiking with hopes of sighting the elusive Koalas. You Yangs National Park was very close to where we stayed and has some great hiking trails. Visiting the park is free for both the trails and the picnic areas. We set out on a hike but unfortunately, we did not find any Koalas. We were happy to see many other types wildlife.

 

Since we have been to Melbourne before, we did not venture downtown in our campervan. Instead we went around the south side on the “rural route” to avoid the heavy traffic and toll roads. We enjoy seeing the countryside which is very green and full of cows. Our destination was Phillip Island, home to a very large colony of fairy penguins. Fairy penguins are the smallest species of penguins in the world and are blue and white rather than the normal black and white. Every night visitors can experience the completely natural phenomenon of the Penguin Parade. There are up to 5,000 penguins that live on the shores of Phillip Island. They come in from the ocean about 30 minutes after the sun sets. It is safer from them to make it to their burrows under the cover of darkness. In the winter the water is colder and less food is near the shore forcing the penguins to swim out father to find food.

Penguin burrow. Can you see the baby penguin inside?

Their search can take up to weeks at a time which is why the number of penguins parading home each night changes throughout the year. There were just under 400 penguins the night we visited. We were not allowed to take photos during our visit because the light of the phones and cameras disorientates the penguins.

Sunset over Phillip Island
Boardwalk at The Nobbies

On Phillip Island there are other attractions to see as well including The Nobbies, whale watching and surfing. The Nobbies is the farthest western point of the island. A long boardwalk system has been built along the cliffs, as well as an information center and Antarctic film display. A small rock island can be seen from The Nobbies boardwalk. It is referred to as Seal Island, home to as many as 30,000 seals. Eco boat trips can be taken to around Seal Island to get a closer view. We enjoyed the boardwalk trails and the beautiful weather.

View of Seal Island from The Nobbies

 After our morning visit to The Nobbies, we continued making our way around the southeast coast. Throughout the long day of driving we enjoyed the views of both the farmlands and the coast. Stopping for the night at a beautiful little spot in the town of Lakes Entrance. Our campsite was right on the water allowing us to soak in the overwater sunset and sunrise. We were visited in the morning by a family of black swans. They were tapping their beaks against our van door looking for food. I love seeing the animals!  

Another full day of driving takes us to Pebbly Beach. We were excited to see kangaroos. Can kangaroos swim?