Markets, Buddha and Pagodas in Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda

For years I have wanted to visit the faraway land of Myanmar. The borders opened in 2011 and tourism has grown little by little.  We checked off another country of my long bucket list when we landed in Yangon, Myanmar. Our guide, Zaw Zaw greeted us with a smile and took us to our hotel. For 9 days we are on a private tour. Yes, it’s a bit over our budget but not knowing what to expect we opted for a guide and driver. It was worth every penny!

Fishing boats on Yangon River

We have seen so much and learned so many things about Myanmar culture. Here are some of the highlights from the first of the three cities we visited, Yangon.

The first thing we picked up on was that Myanmar is pronounced by the local people as Me-a-mar. They do not want to be referred to as Burma as that is the name the military used as well as the British that occupied their country. Now that they are “free” they only refer to the country as Myanmar. They are very proud to no longer be under military rule.

People are selling food everywhere; on the streets, in the trains, in markets big and small. Basically anywhere they can find a place, they just set up and start selling. Many sidewalks have makeshift restaurants that are set up every day.

The very first pagoda we went to in Myanmar is one of the most famous. Shwedagon Pagoda is thought to be 2,600 years old making it the oldest in the world but no official documentation can prove that. Most Buddhists from Myanmar will make a pilgrimage to Yangon at least once in their life to visit this pagoda. The main building is completely covered in 24k gold leaf. The top umbrella is decorated with over 7,000  diamonds, rubies, topaz and sapphires.

A short distance from Shwedagon Pagoda is Chaukhtatgyi or the Reclining Buddha Temple. It houses the one of the largest Buddha images in all of Myanmar. From head to toe is measures 66 meters long (217 feet).

 

 

 

 

Karaweik Hall Barge is a restaurant built to resemble a royal barge. It is floating on Kandawgui Lake. It is quite famous and offers nightly cultural shows with a dinner buffet. We did not partake but went to see this awesome structure. Many logos and signs in the country have a depiction of this “Royal Barge” on them, including Myanmar Beer.

Train platform filled with locals waiting to board the train.

Our visit to Yangon ended with an 18-hour overnight train ride to Bagan that left the station at 4:00pm. The train has three classes; Ordinary class, Second class and First Class with sleeper beds. None of the seats offered air conditioning. Our first class ticket cost approximately $13 per person. The train had one car for first class with three cabins. Each cabin was split into two sides with a private “toilet” for four people. We shared our cabin with a Myanmar couple that spoke very little English but we quite nice. The bottom was split into two chairs with a flip up table in the middle. The chairs pull out into a bed at night. The top had a bunk bed as well. A clean sheet, pillow and blanket were offered.

While the facilities were minimal (a tin can with a hole exposed to the tracks) and the dust was fierce,  we really enjoyed the experience. We were able to see the country side and how people live outside the city. As you can imagine the people have very little money and live in palm leaf huts. Many of the country people are farmers growing corn, rice and peanuts. Each town we went through the people lined the sides of the train waving at the passengers.

Our train arrived in Bagan just before 11:00am. We were greeted again by our guide, Oo. After short dusty and bumpy ride we arrived at our hotel.

Our next post will be of Bagan. A beautiful place that dreams really are made of.

Bangkok, Thailand

We got on the plane wearing several layers because of the cold weather in Chengdu and got off the plane in Bangkok to 91 degrees and humid. It’s crazy how different the weather can be within a two hour plane ride. The heat felt amazing after 30 days of cold. We didn’t realize how much the cold weather starts to get to you after a while. In China everything is cold; most restaurants do not have heat, many of the tourist attractions are outside and it takes a very long time to warm up your hotel room with a wall heater. So, needless to say we enjoyed the warmth, even taking a dip in the hotel pool.

Since we arrived on the weekend we decided to take the sky train to the end of the line (Mo Chit). A very short walk south from the station is the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The market is huge covering an area of 32 acres with more than 15,000 stalls. Vendors are selling everything from clothes, plants, electronics, ceramics, furniture, dried snacks and of course, fresh food/snacks. Robert absolutely had to have one of their specialties – a mango smoothie.

The market is open on Saturday and Sunday only from 9:00am – 4:00pm. We spent about 4 hours walking all around the market. During our day at the market we did stop for a 30 minute foot massage. There are places all over the market that offers massages. It’s very cheap (around $5.00) for 30 minutes. Many locals and tourists were taking a break to enjoy a massage in the air conditioning.

I’m happy to say that after a full day of rest by the pool, playing cards and some competitive billiards, we are both feeling much better.

On our last day in Bangkok we set out to explore the area along the river. The metro and sky train do not run along the river but there are two different options of boats that can be taken to piers up and down the river. Tickets for a single ride is 50 THB. The orange line or the Chao Phraya Express Boat are both at the pier just off the sky train. The Chao Phraya Express Boat offers a unlimited one day pass for 180 THB (approx. $6.00). We opted for the day pass and set out down the river to the pier at Pak Klong Taladd. From there we made a 1/2 mile walk to Wat Pho. The complex contains the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

The temple was amazing, so foreign from what have seen anywhere else in the world. The construction of the current Wat Pho complex was started in 1782 by King Rama I. It is home to more than 1,000 Buddha statues. We wandered through the complex taking in all the spires, Buddha statues and temples. Each building and spire is comprised of thousands of colored ceramic pieces.  The array of colors added a beauty to the buildings. We had a chance to go inside of the temples. Before entering the we were required to remove our shoes. We were happy to do so out of respect for their custom.

The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is in the back of the complex. It was easy to find as that is where the most people were gathered. The Buddha is huge measuring 46 meters long and is completely covered in gold leaf. There are pillars holding the temple up every 3 meters so it is not possible to get a picture on the Reclining Buddha in one shot.

After our visit to Wat Pho we walked north for about a 1/2 mile and then to the west another half mile where we reached the entrance to the Grand Palace. The lines were very long and we still wanted to visit another temple so we chose not to go inside. Hopefully we will have a chance to visit on our next trip to Bangkok.

We got on the boat a took it to the pier at War Arun. It is also known as the Temple of Dawn. Although the original date of construction is not known, Wat Arun started to appear on maps of Bangkok in the mid-1600s. The temple is much smaller than Wat Pho just across the river. However, it is quite beautiful and definitely worth a visit.

Robert had a very special moment in one of the temples at Wat Arun. There was a monk offering blessings to visitors. The blessing is done by sprinkling water over the head, chanting and tying a white string on the wrist. Robert was one of the few who received a personal blessing which is meant to give him good luck and happiness.

We ended our day on a high note and took the boat back to the sky train and then to our hotel. Our short time in Bangkok was definitely not enough time to see everything. It is a gateway city to the rest of Southeast Asia and we know we will be back. For now we are off to see the majestic temples of Myanmar.

Chengdu and the Panda Research Center

Our flight from Beijing was PACKED.  I have never seen an airport so busy at 5:00AM.  Travel during the Chinese New Year tries your patience as the lines to do anything are so long.

But, we made it to Chengdu.  Our health is at . . . lets say 83.2% – good, then bad, then good again.  I think it may be a while before we are completely free from this bug.

Chengdu is best known for the Chengdu Giant Panda Research and Breeding Center.  The Giant Panda has come to symbolize vulnerable species world-wide with only approximately 1,864 Giant Pandas left in the wild and only 266 living in captivity.  Of these 266 in captivity – over half are at the Panda Breeding Center in Chengdu.

It was fun to watch the Giant Pandas eat, play and hang in the trees. The center was flooded with people. There is a lot of pushing and shoving to see the pandas up close as well as to make your way through the park. We learned to be more aggressive in order to make the most of our visit.

Along with the Giant Pandas the park is home to several Red Pandas. They are closely related to raccoons not bears, like the Giant Pandas. Both animals are native to the same areas of the world and both have bamboo as the main part of their diet.

Once we completed a trip through the whole park and had our fill of all the people, we took a shuttle and then the metro back to the old part of the city.

While in Chengdu, we were able to go to one of the Temple Fairs on the last day of the New Year.  Talk about crowds!!!  The fair had wonderful lanterns, lights and great people watching. We were very happy to join in a bit of the New Year’s celebrations after all.

 

We were fortunate enough to be able to attend a Chinese Sichuan Opera.  The Sichuan Opera is a composite performance of many art forms, music, dance, comedy and drama.

Our time in Chengdu and China had to come to an end so we are off to Bangkok, Thailand for some much needed warmth and hopefully be able to kill this bug that has been bothering us for over a week.

 

 

Year of the Dog, the Great Wall and the flu

I will begin with the end.  We have spent the last four days in the hotel because one or the other or both of us have had the flu.  It was bound to happen and we are actually lucky it happened in Beijing because this was not our first time here.  I, of course, got the flu first- Missy stood strong for the first 48 hours and then she succumbed.  Now I am at 95% and she is sleeping trying to get rid of this thing.  Makes you really miss home when you are sick.  Chinese noodle bowls are not the same as chicken noodle soup and are a poor replacement when you aren’t at 100%.  At least the hotel had Olympics (in Chinese) and HBO (in English).

The year of the dog started on February 16.  There are parades and fairs in all of the cities and towns in China.  The Temple Fairs, as they are called, have traditional dragon and lion dances, acrobatics, storytelling and more.  We, as you read in paragraph one, did not partake in any.  We did see the decorations all over the country for the last 24 days.  Many Chinese will travel during this time to see their families.  If fact, It is the largest human migration on earth – over 1.3 Billion people travel during the week of the New Year.

The first couple of days in Beijing were great.  We enjoyed some low air Quality Index days before we got sick and had a great time exploring the city.  We took a tour which highlights included the Temple of Heaven, the Summer Palace, the Forbidden City, the Ming Tombs and the Great Wall of China.

SUMMER PALACE

FORBIDDEN CITY

Changling – A Ming Tomb

The Ming Tomb of Changling is the oldest and most important the Ming Dynasty. The gate leading to the tomb is called the “ghost gate.” During the ceremony of the Emperors burial,  his body would be carried through the gate. In the processional all of the workers who built  the tomb would pass through the gate. At the conclusion of the ceremony, all of the workers would be offered as a sacrifice both for religious significance but also to ensure the location of the Emperors body would never be shared. Therefore, the only way they could pass back through the gate is as a ghost. Our guide was very superstitious about it and encouraged us not to walk through the gate in either direction.

GREAT WALL AT BADALING

We visited the most visited part of the Great Wall, Badaling. We chose this because it was different from where we went on a previous visit. It was New Year’s Day and it was packed! In order to reach the top of the mountain you must take a gondola ride. The ticket is 140 RMB ($22.07 USD)per person. Once at the top, we climbed up and down the wall for about 2 hours. Many parts were very steep and hard to navigate with all of the people. However, the views were amazing and we could see parts of the wall that stretched out for miles. Seeing it in person makes you realize why it’s one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

We have been to two different parts of the Great Wall. Given our experience we would suggest if you have to choose only one to visit, go to Mutianyu. It is easy to find a tour to that part of the walk as well. It is much less crowded and they have a luge that you can ride from top to bottom.

Tomorrow, at 4:50 AM, we are off to our final stop in China – Chengdu to visit the Panda Research Center and see these wonderful animals in their natural habitat.

On the Riverside – Dagangtou, China

Standing in the bus station in Huangshan waiting to board the bus we were approached by a young man asking to see our tickets. He kindly tried to explain in limited English that the tickets we bought to Lishui, China were going to a different station than expected. We weren’t exactly sure where we were going to end up but we got on the bus anyway. Six hours later the bus driver dropped us off on the exit ramp to the toll road in the middle of nowhere. We up and down the street in trying to locate a taxi. With a comedy of events and some google translate, we found a bus that would take us the 4.7 miles to the town of Dagangtou. A half mile walk to the water would lead us to our guest house above a local shop. We were happy to have finally arrived after our 9 hour journey.

Dagangtou is a small town located on the Ouijang River. Historically it was an important place because of the large-scale hydraulic irrigation dating back over 1,500 years. Now it is a haven for painters. There are studios and shops displaying paintings all over the town. The buildings and walls are also painted.

There is a small wharf that offers a short boat ride to the other side of the river. A “scenic route” has been constructed along the opposite side of the river for people to enjoy. It is much like a Chinese garden. Although the day was quite foggy were able to capture some photos of the beautiful scenery (and some of us too!).

It was very peaceful along the river walking the scenic route. The weather is a bit warmer but it is still low season and there are very few tourists. We took our time and enjoyed being off the beaten track.

 

In order to get back to the boat dock, we took a different route through the very small village. People often stop to stare at us as we are the only “westerners” we have seen for days. Everyone is very nice to us but we are definitely the outsiders. We use smiles and gestures to interact with the locals. They are very nice at allowing us to take pictures of their daily life.

One last gem of this small little area is Jiangbin Ancient Street. This water front street was built in the early 1900s at the end of the Qing Dynasty. It has so much character with small shops and restaurants.

After several days in Dagangtou we had to move on. A 1.5 hour public bus ride, two train rides and a taxi brought us to the city of Fuzhou. Tomorrow we fly to Beijing to take part in all of the Chinese New Year Festivities.

Huangshan

We opted to travel by bus instead of train to Huangshan for 1/3 the cost (us budget travelers need to watch every Yuan).  Our bus was on time and uneventful.  We arrived and took a cab to Tunxi, the old town area where our hotel was located.  The cab dropped us off at the edge of the pedestrian area and pointed which way to walk.  We wandered around pulling our bags for approximately 45 minutes looking for the hotel.  Luckily, Missy saw a sign in Chinese that had pictures that resembled the online pictures of the hotel.

Alas we checked in.  The hotel was . . . . rustic:  The wooden slat floorboards and the slat walls were charming, the cinder block bathroom with a 4 foot high ceiling were unique, the squeaky stairs to get to the room brought you back in time.  Unfortunately, going back in time included no heat.  It was 2 degrees Celsius (35F).  You literally could see your breath.  Needless to say, we only lasted one night before checking out and getting a new hotel that was not quite so . . . Retro.

Old town Tunxi is fantastic with shops lining the streets and wonderful restaurants serving traditional food from the region.  Our favorite restaurant was Mei Shi Ren Jia Restaurant, a famous restaurant located at the end of Tunxi Old Street.  At the restaurant you walked a buffet line and wrote down the numbers of the food items you wanted, sat down and the food would be cooked fresh and served for you.  It was excellent – we ate there twice!

The highlight of our trip to Huangshan was our trip to the town’s namesake, Huangshan Mountain also known as Yellow Mountain.  The trip to the mountain was half of the adventure.  It started with a bus ride for a little over an hour from the town of Huangshan to what they refer to as the scenic area.  Then we took another shuttle bus for about 20 to 25 minutes to the base of the mountain.  Finally we took a cable car up to the top.  The trails were cut into  the sides of cliffs and were covered in ice.  Missy bought crampons to attach to her shoes to keep from sliding around.

Of all the notable mountains in China, the Yellow Mountain is probably the most famous. Together with the Yellow River, the Yangtze River and the Great Wall, it has become one of the great symbols of China.  We enjoyed the walk, the climb, but most of all the views, they were breathtaking.

As a slice of daily life we watched in awe as the locals carried large, heavy packages up from the cable car station to the Luxury Hotels at the top of the mountains.  This was impressive to say the least; the sheer strength and stamina, but also remember – the trail was covered in ice.

After hiking approximately 3-4 miles up and down stairs and walking along the cliffs, we repeated the Cable car / shuttle / bus back to the city to rest and get ready for our long bus ride to Dagangtou for a rural China experience.

Watertowns of China – Suzhou and Hangzhou

The train ride was so fast that it  felt like as soon as we sat down and took off our coats, it was time to get off at Suzhou station. We spent more time getting our tickets than actually riding the train. We took a quick taxi ride to our hotel located right in the middle of the tourist center. Hotel Soul Suzhou was very nice and a great find for $60 per night including breakfast. We had a relaxing evening enjoying our nice hotel, happy hour at the bar and really comfy room.

The next morning we set out on a long walk. Not far from the hotel we stumbled upon Chenghuang Temple. They offered free entry so we took advantage and quietly made our way in. There were people in the temple worshiping and performing a traditional ceremony. Men played music and a family made an offering of a paper goose. We all stood and watched as the smoke started and the flames consumed it until there was nothing left but ash. It was a very unique experience that we were lucky to have.

On our way to the west side of town, we walked down some alley ways in the local neighborhood. We saw a few interesting things as part of daily life including laundry hanging to dry on the power lines.

After about two miles of walking we arrived at the Lingering Garden located outside of Chengman Gate. It is considered one of China’s best traditional gardens.

It was built in 1583 by Xi Taishi, by a bureaucrat of the Ming court. It covers an area of 2.3 hectares.  The off season price of entrance is 45 RMB ($7.14). We wandered through the garden for about 1.5 hours taking in all of the beautiful flora and fauna.

After our time at the gardens we started to make our way back toward our hotel. Since we were quite a way from that area, we decided to take the public bus. Bus #1 makes a route that stops near most tourist locations. The older folks on the bus were fascinated that we were riding along with them.

Day two we decided to take the metro to the north side of Old Town. Our first stop was at the Bao’em Temple. Parts of the temple complex date back to construction between 1131 and 1162 AD. The pagoda is nine stories high. While pagoda is closed we explored the temple complex including walking around the pagoda in a clockwise route in order to keep the “spirits” happy with us. It’s part of the local beliefs.

A short walk from the Bao’em Temple is the Humble Administrator’s Garden. The original part of the garden was built in 1509. It covers a very large area and takes a minimum of two hours to walk and enjoy all the different sections the garden offers.  Humble Administrator’s Garden is much busier that the others we visited so far and also more expensive. The low season price is 70 RMB ($11.00) and 90 RMB in high season. The gardens have many pavilions, ponds and rockeries to explore. On warmer days it would be a great place for a picnic.

Just two blocks down from the garden’s exit is a small stand offering canal boat rides. We were excited to have the chance to ride the boat and this one is a much less expensive option that the large motorized boats on other parts of the canal. The cost is 40 RMB per person and we got our own boat. The ride was around 45 minutes long. While the canals are not as scenic as those in other parts of the world, it was a great way to see every day life in the city. We also got a chance to “steer” the boat. I did not do well!

While walking back to the center of Old Town, we came across the Phi Shi Street Bird and Flower Market. We couldn’t believe the amount of animals that they had in such small cages. It was very sad to see them so crammed together. The good things was all the animals were very clean and seemed to be well fed. The market is where locals come to buy fresh flowers and also find a pet. There many different animals for sale including puppies, bunnies, kittens, turtles, birds, guinea pigs, gerbils and many kinds of fish.

Our day would not have been complete without a meal of our favorite new Chinese food… fried dumplings. We found a local restaurant near the famous shopping street, Guan Qian Street. The menu was only in Chinese, so we did our best to point at pictures to order our food. The small shop did not disappoint. It was another great meal of pork fried dumplings and white rice for approximately $3.00 for two people.

The next morning we grabbed our bags and took the metro to the train station. After standing in line for quite a while we discovered all the tickets for morning trains to Hangzhou were sold out. So we made a run for the bus station located across the street. Were we on a bus 20 minutes later. It turned out to be a great way to travel and cheap too. We arrived in Hangzhou 3 hours later and took a taxi to our hotel in the Old Town. We were in the taxi for almost an hour because traffic was CRAZY! We settled into the hotel and then set out to find some dinner. We located a restaurant near our hotel and enjoyed some Kung Pao Chicken. It was spicy but very good.

Our hotel is a four block walk from Westside Lake the main attraction of Hangzhou. It is a man-made lake covering 2.5 square miles. There are a lot of things to do along the waters edge as well take a boat ride to the island in the middle.  During our two day visit we spent two afternoons strolling the boardwalk, watching the locals play cards in the park and following the cormorant birds as they fished along the shallow water.

We also took the boat ride to the island in middle containing  “The Three Pools Mirroring the Moon.” It was basically a Chinese garden on an island in the middle of the lake. It is beautiful with calm waters throughout the middle with small pavilions along the outside.

There are many different kinds of boats that will take you to the island. Of course they all have different prices ranging from 55 RMB to 120 RMB. We opted for the cheaper option and found out that on the way back you can take which ever boat you want. We took the smaller covered boat there and the decorated own on the way back.

Along the water is a very large elevated park. We climbed the never ending stairs to the top and were rewarded with beautiful views of the city and lake. There is much to see in the park with many temples, pavilions and the City God Temple. We leisurely enjoyed an afternoon in the park.

In front of the park is Hefang Street, a historic pedestrian shopping street lined with shops and food stalls.  In present day, it’s quite touristy but fun to see all the Chinese tourists on vacation. Everything is geared toward Chinese tourists. Robert just had to try one of the local treats, sugar glazed strawberries. So good!

As we did in Suzhou, we had to find some great local food to try in Hangzhou.  We are lucky that to be staying only one block from the very famous Kui Yuan Guan Noodle Restaurant. It was founded in 1867 and serves Anhui-style noodles. Yummy!

 

This morning (yes, 7:30am Monday) we woke up to watch the Super Bowl Live. Robert had his coffee in hand and was yelling at the iPad. We had fun enjoying a little piece of home. Hope everyone had an amazing Super Bowl Sunday.

 

Tomorrow we are off to Huangshan for a visit to Yellow Mountain. See on the other side of the clouds…

Dumplings, Temples and Smog

Fourteen hours after leaving the US, we arrived in Shanghai, China. We grabbed our bags and made our way to the Maglev (bullet train). Even though this option is more expensive than taking the metro into the city, we wanted the experience of the very fast train. During our eight minute ride, the train speed reached 430 kilometers per hour. Surprisingly the ride was very smooth. It felt as though we were gliding past the traffic outside.

Finding our hotel proved to be a bit of a challenge as Siri pin-pointed the hotel in the wrong location, google maps is a blocked website in China and we could not locate a phone number to call the hotel. After more than one hour wandering around in the rain with our bags, we were relived to find the Fish Inn tucked beside a bridge. We were so happy to relax in a warm, dry place.

The next morning we woke up extremely early as we hadn’t quite adjusted to the tremendous time difference. We set out to explore the Bund area. It was still rainy and so the views along the Bund and Pudong across the Huangpu River were not crisp. We enjoyed taking in the sights and beautiful architecture.

The next few days were dry but very smoggy. The air quality index reached 286, which is considered very bad. We could see the smog everywhere we went. We didn’t let it stop us from enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of Shanghai. One of our highlights was walking down the famous “shopping street” of Nanjing Road.

Jade Buddha Temple

The metro in Shanghai is very easy to use and an extremely cheap way of getting around the city. Each ride is 3 RMB (approx. $0.50). We took the metro out to a different area of the city so we could visit the Jade Buddha Temple. It is a large complex that seems to kept going deeper and deeper as you explore.

The most photographed part is the jade reclining Buddha in the back right corner pavilion.

City God Temple

On the south end of the Bund are several sites including the City God Temple. We walked the full length of the Bund and arrived at the temple.  The cost of entrance is only 10 RMB. We were thrilled we made the stop to see this beautiful place. The incense was burning creating a smoke outside the main pavilion.

Another wonderful place to visit is the Yu Garden in the Old City which contains a Chinese garden dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). The Old City is fully decorated for Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) which will begin on February 15th. We walked the zig-zag bridge and started in the Yu Garden. Snow is still on the roof tops and flowers are just starting bud. The garden is beautiful even in the winter. It covers a large area with several different pavilions that were once used by Chinese poets to gather their thoughts and get inspiration.

Eating some of the local food is a must. We opted for a very famous steamed bun restaurant. Nanxiang is located outside the Yu Garden on the opposite side of the zig-zag bridge. It has three floors. Street level is the take out window, that has a line of people 30+ deep at all times. The second floor offers only one type of steamed bun – Pork and crab mixed. We chose the third floor which offers a full service dining experience with a large menu. The cost is more for each floor you go up, but we were excited to try a few different items. An order of six buns will cost approximately 35 RMB on the top floor compared to 15 RMB at the take out window. We started with a cold beef appetizer and one order of pork steamed buns. We loved them so much we ordered the vegetable ones too!

On our last night we tried our best to get a picture of the beautiful lit up skyline along the Bund. Unfortunately the smog never let up and this is the best shot we could get…

Our last morning in Shanghai we joined another Freetour.com walking tour. There was a small group that joined our guide, Kylie, for the four-hour walking tour. We started at People’s Square and walked down Nanjiang Road, to the Bund and all the way to the Yu Garden.

During our tour we stopped at a Michelin recommend restaurant and local hotspot, Da Hun Chun. They are well known for their fried dumplings. We paid for one order (4 dumplings for 7 RMB), they gave us a meal ticket and then we collected the dumplings from the food window. Wow.. they were amazing and even better than the steamed dumplings.

It was a wonderful tour that taught us many things about Shanghai’s history, the customs of the area, how to order food in the food halls and some little known facts about the city. Thanks Kylie for an awesome tour!

At the conclusion of the tour we went straight for the metro and then to the Railway Station. The 25 minute train ride with take us to the water town of Suzhou.

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

The magnificent waterfall of Iguazu is located on the border between Brazil and Argentina. It was “discovered” by Spaniards in 1591 but gets its name from the native Guarani people. Iguazu means “big water” in their language. Iguazu Falls is one of the Natural Wonders of the World and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the second largest of all waterfalls in the world behind Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. More water flows through Iguazu Falls in a year than any other waterfall in the world.

Seeing the falls is possible on both the Argentina and Brazilian side. United State citizens need a visa to visit Brazil but not Argentina so during our trip we did a complete tour of the Argentina side. After entering the park and paying the $500 pesos admission, we started by taking the train to the upper part of the falls. From there we walked over one kilometer long metal bridge to get to the “devils throat.”  Our first siting of the falls was from the platform in the middle of mist. As we stood and took in the thunderous sounds of the falls and the amazing view of water pouring over the cliffs, we were soaked by the continuous heavy mist. Even though I was soaked through, I couldn’t help but grin from ear to ear.

As we made the trek over water back to dry land, we passed many large catfish swimming in the water below. They are most likely waiting for the tourists to feed them.

After taking the train back down from the top of the falls, we took the “Upper Circuit” walking trail. The 1.5 kilometer walk offers the best panoramic views of the falls. It is breathtaking. From the trail you can see all the falls that make up Iguazu and the multiple levels the water hits on its way down.  Another interesting experience is standing at the very top of one of the falls and watching the water rush over the cliff and fall down hundreds of feet with a constant loud thunder.

We stopped for lunch in the main rest area of the park which offers several food options, a convenient store and public restrooms. Everyone must watch out when sitting out sit because there are very aggressive coatis (raccoon like animals) that are out to find an easy meal. There are signs warning people of the coatis and they are not afraid of people. Below you can see them walking amongst our group.

As we finished our lunch, the skies opened and a downpour of rain started. It was time for us to set out on the last part of our tour, the boat ride. So without hesitation we walked out into the rain. Our guide took us to the safari trucks for our trip down the Iguazu River where we would meet up with our boat captain. The rain was not letting up. The trucks were open air offering no protection from the rain. It made for a wild and very wet ride through the rainforest.

We were given life jackets and dry bags to put our belongings in. Then we boarded the rubber boat with great anticipation of what was going to happen. Our captain took us up the river to where Iguazu Falls crashes over the cliffs. Our boat continued to get closer and closer until we were under the falling water. The huge amount of water crashing all around us made it very hard to see but it was amazing! I snapped pictures blindly trying to capture some of what it was like to be under the falls. Click the link below to see the video from under the falls (sometimes it loads a bit slow).

The boat ride under the falls is not to be missed. It is an amazing experience and nothing like anything we have done before.

Our day at Iguazu Falls was at an end, so happy and completely soaked we went back to our hotel. We enjoyed a relaxing evening at NaMaRa Hotel with our awesome hosts Matias and Nancy. They were gracious and made our stay in their hotel wonderful.

 

We are standing in Argentina, top of the picture is Paraguay and right side is Brazil.

During our stay in Puerto Iguazu we took the bus into town. We enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant. There is not a lot to see in town but it is always nice to check out the area. We walked along the river to the point where 3 countries meet. When standing in Argentina you can see Brazil and Paraguay.

Our trip to Iguazu was short, but amazing. If you have a chance to make the trip, you definitely won’t forget it.

After a short stop in the US, we are headed to Asia. First stop… Shanghai!

Montevideo, Uruguay and Buenos Aires, Argentina

We arrived on a hot sunny day in the capital city of Montevideo. the weather had changed dramatically since our last stop in Puerto Madryn. It was going to be a hot one! We met up with our friends, the Davis family (Jeff, Diane and Grace), in the morning and headed out to explore the city on foot. Since none of the Holland organized tours looked like what we wanted to do, we wandered the streets in the direction of Plaza de Independencia to join the 11:00am free walking tour.

As we walked the approximately one mile to the Plaza we went in to many shops and browsed through street vendors. We joined a group of about 20 people in the plaza for the free walking tour with Geraldo, our guide. He was great and enthusiastic about the history of his country. We were able to see some of the most important site in the city.

At the end of our  two hour tour, Geraldo, offered all of us a taste of a famous Uruguayan liquor, Grappamil. It is like Italian Grappa sweetened with honey. He poured us all a taste. It was much better than my recent taste of Grappa.

Traditional asado style of cooking in the market

When the tour ended we went to the market located in the Old City, also near the port. The Mercado el Puerto is now a place to purchase any souvenirs you may want to take home with you, including Dulce de Leche (Uruguay claims to have created it first and also to have the “best in the world”). In and around the market there are many restaurants offering a selection of meats cooked over a traditional asado (BBQ).

Robert, Missy Jeff, Grace and Diane

By the afternoon, it was very hot outside and we were all in need of a cold drink. A few blocks up the main street from the market, there are little bars and cafes with outdoor seating. We picked one in the shade and enjoyed a few glasses of Patricia, local Uruguayan beer. The cold drinks cooled us down and we made our way back to the ship.

We finished up our fun afternoon with a daily game of trivia. This round was our crowning glory taking first place. Our prize… free drinks from our cruise director, Ryan!

 

During the night our ship crossed the Rio de la Plata to the Argentina capital city of Buenos Aires.  This was the final destination of our cruise. We were sad that our cruise had come to an end but excited to explore the city and continue our adventure.

Our first day in Buenos Aires, it was cold and raining. We were able to walk for about one hour before the rain started. We began our exploration at the clock tower, Torre Monumental and then up to Calle Florida. The pedestrian street of Calle Florida continues for several blocks. It is filled with shops selling just about anything you can think of. However, one thing you cannot miss are all the people yelling “Cambio, Cambio” over and over. There are dozens of them along the streets trying to get people to change currency with them. While it is illegal, there is a strong desire for people to get US Dollars rather than Argentinian Pesos. While it may be easy to do a currency exchange with one of them, it is not a good idea as they can give you fake bills. We laughed at all of their different ways of saying the same thing. Some fast, some slow, some aggressively and some like they are half asleep. It’s part of the atmosphere of shopping along Calle Florida.

Since it was pouring down rain, we cut our walk a bit short. We stayed in Buenos Aires for 4 nights so we had plenty of time to enjoy the city.

 

One of our highlights was visiting the Catedral Metropolitana, located on the Plaza de Mayo. Located in the Cathedral is the tomb of San Martin. He was the liberator of many South American Spanish territories, initiating their independence. It is guarded when the Cathedral is open. At 1:00pm we watched the changing of the guard.

On Sunday we met up with the Davis family in the Plaza Dorrego for the weekly market. The streets all around the plaza were filled with street vendors selling everything from antiques to crafts to souvenirs. The market happens every Sunday from approximately 10:00am to 4:00pm in the neighborhood of San Telmo.

On Monday, we joined another free walking tour at 11:00am. The one in Buenos Aires must have reservations in advance because they limit the number of people on each tour. Our guide, Vicky, took us through the main downtown area giving us a tremendous amount of information about the city as we walked. The tour was 2.5 hours starting in Plaza Congresso and ending at the Obelisk. It was a great way to learn about the city.

During our stay in Buenos Aires, we ate at the Pizzeria Guerrin twice. They are known for having the best empanadas in the city and their pizza is great too! At both lunch and dinner time the place is packed. They only except cash. The walls are full of photos of South American celebrities that have eaten there. It has a fun atmosphere and the food is great! The restaurant is located 2 blocks from the Obelisk.

Our visit to Buenos Aires had to come to an end, but we have more stop to make in Argentina…Puerto Iguazu.