Temples, Monkeys and Sunset in Bagan, Myanmar

As noted in our last post, we arrived in Bagan via an overnight train. Our guide picked us up and we started our tour. No shower, no break – we just went for it. Bagan is a farming community that has become a tourist destination. It remains relatively stuck in the past. Looking back at our photos we don’t believe we captured the full beauty of this place but we will do our best to share our experience.

Myanmar has very few international chains unlike almost every other country we have visited. Since the borders opened 7 years ago, they tried to keep very close reigns on what companies are let in. So, they do not have any fast food… there are no McDonald’s, Pizza Huts or 7Elevens. They do not have any grocery stores or shops to buy food, especially in the remote areas. Naung U Market is where the locals visit almost everyday to buy their food. It is divided into sections; meats, veggies, home goods, fabrics, etc.

During the height of Bagan’s glory between the 11th and 13th centuries, pagodas and temples were built all over the city. There is thought to have been over 30,000 in Bagan. Over the centuries the effects of war, bad weather and earthquakes have destroyed 90% of them leaving over 3,000 as we see it today. The views are incredible as they are now, I can’t even imagine what it would have looked like 1,000 years ago.

It was impossible to see 3,000 pagodas during our visit, so we visited some fo the “most important” and impressive ones.

Shwezigon Paya was built in the 11th century by King Anawrahta. He was the first major advocate for Buddhism in Myanmar. This stupa (a type of temple/pagoda) is a large structure that is used for religious purposes but is solid. Different from the other pagodas that can be entered and contain Buddha images. This stupa is covered in gold leaf. There are many buildings surrounding the stupa which contain the Buddha images for prayer and meditation. The completed Shwezigon Paya became a model for many others built around the region.

Ananda Pagoda was built in 1091 AD. The legend goes that the plans for temple were drawn up to replicate a very important cave temple used by Indian monks found in the Nandamula mountain range in the Himalayas. The architecture is amazing and very impressive for the time it was built. Inside there are small niches all over the walls to allow settling to occur with deterioration and makes the building itself much lighter. The lighter weight has helped it through the many terrible earthquakes Myanmar has suffered over the years. Inside the niches are Buddha images and 18 parts that depict the story of how the prince became Buddha.

The Dhammayangyi Temple is the largest temple in the entire Bagan area. It was built in 1170 AD by King Narathu. It was built by the remorseful king after he killed his father and older brother to get the crown. The are four entrances, each containing a Buddha image. The one facing east (the most important and the main entrance) contains two Buddha images in memorandum of the king’s father and brother.

In Myanmar, each Buddhist man (85% of all people are Buddhist) must become a monk twice in their life. Once as a boy, which is called a novice and once as man over the age of 20. The men can decide if they want to stay for the minimum of 7 days or longer.

One evening in Bagan we were lucky to witness a very large novice ceremony. When a boy reaches the age of 7 they can join the order of monks and learn the teaching of Buddha. Family save up money for a long time to have the ceremony. Some families with lesser incomes will get together with their sisters and brothers to have combined ceremony for their boys. The novice ceremonies range from one truck full of people with loud music to an entire parade with hundreds of people. The first one we saw in Myanmar was very large. Here are some of our photos showing the traditional costumes and make-up (Yes, the boys have on make-up too).

The parade goes from the family home to the monastery where the novice will remain. Everyone wears their best clothes. The boys becoming novices ride atop horses and are dressed like a prince because it represents Buddha prior to him becoming a monk/Buddha. The women follow with gifts for the head monk with will preform the ceremony at the monastery. The include money, gold, food, etc. The family members bring the items the novice will need during their service like robes, their food pots and sandals. The event is elaborate and beautiful. We were thrilled to have taken part.

From Bagan we took a day trip to Mount Popa, a temple built on top of a mountain at 1518 meter above sea level. It is a pilgrimage site for Myanmar’s Nats (Spirits) and Buddhist relics. It is hard to see from our photos because of the haze but the only way to the top is by climbing the steps. I’m sure you’re wondering… did you climb them? Of course! We descended 200 stairs to get to the base of the mountain from our drop off point. Then, as is the custom we left our shoes at the bottom of the stairs and climbed 777 steps to the top, barefoot. It was a long way up.

On the way up their are many stalls of people selling things of all different kinds. Half way up there is an area where the Myanmar people stop to have lunch. The food consists of a cabbage salad and noodle soup. As you can imagine it doesn’t look very sanitary but it was very popular. We did not stop to partake.

Myanmar people don’t carry water bottles with them and they do not buy bottled water either. Their culture is that water is provided by in public areas to anyone who wants to drink from it. There are often clay pots and sometimes large steel tank that contain drinking water (although not purified to our digestive ability). The pots are in temples, the markets, outside shops and along the street. The mindset is that if you have nothing else to offer, you can help others by offering a basic human need of drinking water. Here is a picture of the water station offered at Mount Popa.

As we climbed the stairs, we were surrounded by monkeys. They were everywhere. And the monkeys really did not like Robert. Twice he got to close and they took a swipe at him. Luckily Robert made it out with out a scratch. They eat trash and tourists give them peanuts. Locals hate them because the make a mess. But the experience wouldn’t have been the same without them.

At the top we explored the Nat shrines and temples. The climb and expectation is a bit more exciting than what is on top but it was a thrill to make it all the way up.

Our last night in Bagan, we spent amongst the temples as the sun went down. The brick illuminates a deep red color and the sun glows beautiful orange and yellow. Here are some of our favorite pictures from those indescribable moments.