Through the wake of our boat, we could see our bungalow on Gili Gede getting smaller in the distance. The boatman dropped us off on the beach where a car
was waiting to take us into the center of Lombok. After a two and a half hour drive, we reached the area of Tetebatu. It is a lesser known tourist area with a few guesthouses and homestays to accommodate travelers. Our driver dropped us off on the side of the road near a small alley, pointing and saying “that way.” We took our luggage down the alley, around the corner and up into a garden where we found our bungalow. Mu and his family were very gracious hosts during our entire stay. We were lucky that Mu was also able to be our tour guide. He offered us two full days of private tours for a very reasonable price.
The morning of our first tour day, we set out of foot through the local neighborhood and into the rice fields. We followed the footsteps of the farmers walking on the ledges of fields. Most them only wide enough to put down one foot at a time or sometimes walking along the irrigation canals.
We explored for hours, while Mu gave us a lesson in the process of rice farming. After his lesson we have a greater understandi
ng of all the work that goes into growing rice, the differences in the kinds of rice grown and how it is harvested. The communities around Tetebatu are some of the best places to see rice grown all year round because each farmer starts planting rice at a different time. They do this to spread out the water source. There isn’t enough water available for everyone to plant at the same time so they rotate. Farmers grow three crops of regular white rice or two crops of sticky rice per year. We had an opportunity to meet many of the locals in the fields during our trek. One of the farmers even cut up some fresh coconuts and let us enjoy them in his shaded hut.
After walking about 8 kilometers we came to a large stream. We followed Mu up the steam and through the canyon using some ladders and railings made of bamboo to get to a waterfall. The water was very cold but we braved it anyway.
Continuing our walk a short distance from the Tetebatu Waterfall, we reached the dense forest home to black monkeys. It was like entering a whole different world. We took a rest while watching them swing from tree to tree. We were happy to know that the black monkeys are not aggressive and do not want to interact with visitors.
Another 2 kilometers of walking led us to a Warung (a restaurant serving local dishes). After a good meal of fried noodles, we were exhausted. Mu and his friend took us back to our bungalow on scooters. Thank goodness!
We took a rest upon our return and in the late afternoon we got the chance to roast fresh coffee beans the traditional Lombok way with Mu and his mother. It was an awesome experience following all the proper steps:
Once we had the powder we mixed it with water and enjoyed the fruits of our labor.
Day two of our tetebatu private tour was on scooters. Robert got a 30 second lesson on how to drive one and we were off. As were driving we came across a 
group of locals harvesting in one of the rice fields. Mu stopped and took us over to watch the process. The people are so friendly and were thrilled to have us there, even giving us a chance to join in. The rice grains are removed from the stalks by banging bundles of stalks against a large piece of wood. As you can imagine, rice grains fly everywhere but are gathered on a tarp that is laid out over the field. Local people come to help the farmer harvest and as payment they get to take the stalks home to feed their cows. Click the link to watch the process. 20170220_102704
The next several hours were spent going from village to village meeting local women. We had the opportunity to observe and sometimes participate in the making of Lombok handicrafts. Unlike other countries, the handicrafts from Lombok are not made in factories but rather by local women in their homes. We were welcomed by the ladies to watch them while they made sarongs, processed tobacco, made pottery and weaved bamboo bags.
Since this area is not full of tourists, it was a unique environment to experience what the women do in their everyday lives.
On last stop of the day we hiked to see the beautiful Benang Stokel Waterfalls. This is an unusual site because it consists of two water falls side by side. In rainy season it sometimes spits into three waterfalls. It is not as grand as many we have seen in our travels but the setting is beautiful and the double falls is breathtaking.
After just 3 days in Lombok, our stay was at an end. It was one of the most authentic cultural experience we have had on our journey so far. It is long way to get to Tetebatu but worth the trip.
Our journey continues to Ubud Bali with a 6:30am flight since the ferries are cancelled due to 20 foot waves. Will the flight be better than a boat ride?