Return to Ubud – Bali, Indonesia

Very early in the morning (approximately 4:00am) we were picked up in Tetebatu, Lombok and taken to the airport for our 6:30am flight. As the morning progressed no word was given as to when our flight would board. Time continued to pass until we finally started boarding the tiny propeller plane at 8:45am. The distance is only 100 miles, so a little strange to take a flight but it was our only option since the ferries were all cancelled. What should have been a short domestic flight ended up being a seven hour journey. We were excited to spend our last few days in Indonesia returning to the first place we visited in Asia six years ago.

As soon as we entered the Ubud area we could see that tourism has continued to increase since our last visit. Ubud is the center of tourism in Indonesia made famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. Since that movie was released in 2010, tourism has doubled and the area caters to tourists. However, for most people it remains the quintessential Balinese experience. For us, it is much like going to any major tourist destination offering a fun atmosphere and lots of activities but not the authentic cultural vibe we look for. On one’s first trip to Bali, it is definitely worth a 2 – 3 day visit.

While there are a few medium size hotels, most tourist accommodations are in bed and breakfast, guesthouses or homestays. We stayed at a guesthouse that was more like a small hotel with a beautiful pool, great rooms and a yummy breakfast.  We were presented with a fresh coconut drink upon our arrival. The walk from Nayoman Sandi Guest House, where we stayed, was about 0.7 miles into Ubud center.

Ubud’s main streets are lined with shops, artist studios, restaurants, spas, tourism agents and fruit stands. There is a large tourist market in the city center with locals selling hundreds of souvenirs. We enjoyed walking around the market to see all the things that are for sale as well as people watching. 

As with the rest of Asia, if you want to buy something be prepared to bargain without being shy. The locals always quote something outlandish and you can settle on about 50% of what they originally offer and sometimes as much as 70% less. We bought just a few things as we don’t have much space to take things along with us.

During our four day stay, we took advantage of the cheap spa offerings available and had 2.5 hour treatment for approximately $17.00 each. It was wonderful!

We also hired a driver for a day to take us to some of the sites in the area that we did not see on our previous trip. We spent 7 hours touring temples, seeing another volcano and climbing a rice terrace.

The Holy Springs Temple Complex or Tirtha Empul, consists of many buildings and pools where visitors can take a dip in the water for a spiritual healing. The temple was built in 962 AD and has since been used as a sacred Hindu place of worship.  We watched as people lined up to “cleanse” themselves. In other parts of the temple we watched as offerings were presented to the Hindu gods.

A few things to note about taking a tour from Ubud.

• There is a difference between hiring a driver and a guided tour.  It’s important to clarify before finalizing a price.
• Bring a sarong or large scarf on the tour. This applies to both men and women. It is required to cover your legs all the way to your ankles to enter the temples.
• Each place charges a small fee for entrance. Usually 15,000 INR (approx. $1) per person. Make sure to take cash as no one excepts credit cards.

On our last day we had a chance to make traditional Balinese offerings at our guesthouse. The wife of the owner demonstrates to any of the guests that wish to learn. The offerings are made bamboo leaves, flowers and grass. We tried our best but they were far from perfect. Once completed they are offered in temples or to anything you may be thankful for. We left ours on the steps of our bungalow which is very common practice in Bali.

After an incredible month in Indonesia the time has come for us to say goodbye to this diverse country. We enjoyed our last fresh blended juice on the patio of our bungalow.

We were very happy to have a chance to visit the island that holds a special place in our heart. Six and a half years ago we were married on the black sand beaches of Bali. One day we will be back again!

Over the next 2 days we have 33 hours of travel including 4 international flights to get from Bali to Cape Town, South Africa.  Stellenbosch Wine Region here we come!