Latvia and Lithuania

Headboard, chandelier, and bedside lamp drawn on the wall

Riga and Vilnius – Our last two cities in the Baltics.  We arrived in Riga, Latvia on the bus and walked the 0.7 kilometers to our Hostel.  We chose the hostel because of its location in the middle of old town.  The room was okay but the location was perfect only about 3 blocks form the main square.  Riga’s old town is alive with activity.  Many restaurants have a stage for singers to perform.  It was great after a long day of walking on the cobblestones to sit and listen to music and have a cold one.

On the final day in Riga we took a river boat cruise which allowed a different glimpse of the city. 

Our next stop was Vilnius, Lithuania.  We stayed 3 nights in a brand new (nobody has ever slept there) flat right outside the old city walls.  The city, similar to Tallinn and Riga, has an amazing old town.  We walked the streets and took in the sights of the beautiful churches, castle and great architecture.

We have enjoyed our time in the Baltics, but we have other adventures ahead of us.  We are now on a LONG bus ride to Warsaw, Poland and then off to Krakow.

Goodbye to the Emerald Isle

It has been so long since the last post.  We have traveled and traversed the countries of Ireland and North Ireland for the past 12 days.  We have been going at full speed.  We are now at the Dublin airport waiting for our next flight and next adventure.

Tulla (Irish for little hill), our Nissan Micra, was wonderful.  She has brought our Irish trip to a close with 2697.1 km —  1675.9 miles in 12 days.  As I said – full speed.  For the first time on the trip we had an automatic.  The guy renting us the car actually asked us if we knew how to drive an automatic!!!

Giants Causeway

In our Irish adventure we have spent time driving the countryside looking at the scenery and the sheep.  We have covered the country from South to North taking in all we could.  From natural phenomena like the Giants Causeway, to the ancient Irish tombs of Carrowmore dating from 4500 years before Christ.  Sprinkled throughout the trip were amazing castles and some English language movies (we had to see Spider-Man and Wonder Woman).

We celebrated the 4th of July at the Cliffs of Moher.  The day started as you would expect for the middle of summer about 50 degrees and raining but once we were out for about an hour the sun came out and it was breathtaking.

Yesterday we went to the Titanic Experience in Belfast – The experience was wonderful – Expensive but worth it.  The US dollar is only about $0.77 currently against the British Pound.  The experience tells the story not only of the ship but of the city of Belfast over the past 300 years.

 

Today, back in Dublin, we went to learn how to pull the perfect pint of Guinness.  Yes,  I know, completely touristy, completely hokey – but completely fun.  We had a great time learning about Ireland’s favorite drink.

Our time with Izzie, Scotty and Tulla has been great and allowed us to see so much.  Now, we are off to our next stop in our journey.  This will be completely different as we are not renting a car.  We are flying to Oslo, Norway tonight on our way to Helsinki, Finland then taking a ferry to Tallinn, Estonia.  Our traversing of the countries will slow but our adventures will not.

 

Day 60

WOW!!!!  Really has it been that long already?  Two months of travel.  60 days of being Vagabonds.  April 29, 2017 we began this adventure.  I thought today would be a great time to update everyone on the statistics of our trip to date. I know, for the people who know me it’s not too surprising that we have excel spreadsheets tracking various items.

Smiling on day 59

 

  • First of all, we are within budget – averaging $141.34 per day (based on day 59)  We will be slightly lower at the end of today as we will spend less than our running average
  • We have officially been to 9 countries – according to the travelers century club.  The club recognizes some countries that are not actually countries in their own right, they are included because they are removed from the parent country, either geographically, politically or ethnologically.   http://travelerscenturyclub.org
  • We have dipped our feet into – the Caribbean Sea, the Mediterranean Sea,  The North Sea and the North      Atlantic Ocean.
  • We have seen 32 different castles in 3 different countries (that have Castle in their name not including palaces, estates or residences).
  • We have stayed in 24 different hotels.  These have included, hostels, B&Bs, standard hotels, guest houses, apartments and rooms to let over pubs.

I guess when you add all of this up you get 60 days of fun, adventure and really the reason we started doing this in the first place.

Scotty

We have a lot more to go.  Tomorrow we leave (at 5:30 AM) for Ireland and Northern Ireland.  We will turn in “Scotty” our Scottish rental VW for another car in Dublin for an 11 day adventure before heading for Eastern Europe in mid-July.

Our search for Nessie

In the deep lies a creature – a creature of myth and legend – a dragon – a beast

The Loch Ness Monster.

Loch Ness at sunset

We reached Loch Ness, where this legendary creature lives.  We have all read the stories – the photos have been debunked.  People say that she never was here, or that she is long since gone (as the first sighting was in 565 A.D.).

So, looking for her is pointless – – – or is it?

The weather was perfect (19 degrees Celsius), the wind was calm, the sun was high in the sky.  I was sure that THIS was the time.  We joined the search aboard the Jacobite Warrior – a vessel equipped for the challenge.  With sonar reaching the depth of 750 feet on our journey, we crisscrossed the Loch with our eyes locked on the sonar screen looking for anything.  We waited and watched.  We watched and waited.  Nessie did not appear.  I’m not sure what went wrong – everything looked to be perfect for our historical viewing.  I guess it just wasn’t our day.

Falls of Foyers

The Loch is beautiful.  The mountains falling into the water.  For such a worldwide legend it was very peaceful and quiet.  We stayed on the less traveled West side of the lake by the Falls of Foyers.  The falls were beautiful as was the hike down to them.

FYI – The sun sets at 11:00 PM and rises about 4:15 AM this time of year so you have plenty of daylight to do your own search for Nessie.

Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness

 

The Highland Games

Traditional heavy events like the caber toss, hammer throw and tug-o-war; dance competitions, and piping – the highland games are a wonderful exhibition of all that is Scottish.   The following link is for a short part of the opening march.

Click here for – Highland Games Opening March

Photos tell the story better than I, so I will leave you with them.  Our next stop is to search for the elusive creature Nessie – at Loch Ness.

Caber Toss – object is to throw the caber (big ass tree trunk) and flip it over so the part the man is holding is facing straight out – judging is based on degrees off center if the thrower is able to flip it.
Putting the stone – played with a real stone. Just like shot put but the stone is 26 pounds vs 16 pounds
Hammer throw – a steel ball on the end of a stick weight of 22 pounds you spin and throw for distance.
Tug-o-war – This was the Grampian Highland Games 725 Kilogram tug-o-war championship.  One of  the only events that the competitors are not required to wear  kilts.
Winners in Yellow
Highland Fling
Highland Fling

Castles, a pint and a wee dram

Scotland has something for everyone.  The countryside is stunningly green, there are so many castles that even my wife is saying “no we can skip that one”, the pubs are just as you imagined they were 75 years ago, and it is the birthplace of Scotch whisky (no “e”  if you are in Scotland).

In the last 5 days we have been to 12 castles, 1 palace and an Abby to boot.  We have explored these castles and climbed to the top of the sometimes endless staircases.  The castles have been spectacular; the ones left in ruins leave everything to your imagination and the ones that are still standing are a gateway to another time.  We have enjoyed them all.

On our third day in Scotland we stayed in a fishing village at a pub with rooms.  The experience  was wonderful, we felt we were part of the “real” town.  The pub is where all of the town goes at the end of every day to talk and have a pint or two.  The pub was listed as one of the top rated in all of Scotland to get the “perfect pint”.  BTW – a pint in the UK is 20% larger than a typical US pint.  We loved it, and the drive home was just 20 yards away.

In my opinion, no visit to Scotland would be complete without sampling a ‘wee dram’ of uisge beatha or ‘the water of life’ …the name given by the ancient Celts to the fiery amber nectar now called Scotch whisky.  We toured the one that started it all -The Glenlivet.  The tour was fantastic and allowed us to see the entire distilling process and allowed us to try a few drams.

Our Scottish adventure will continue with a day at the Highland Games and our search for Nessie…

 

6,075.7 Kilometers

Yes, that’s 3,775.27 miles that Izzy drove through Spain, Gibraltar, Portugal, France, and Andorra.  We drove and watched the towns, the people and the sites.  We sang songs (always in perfect harmony), we made wrong turns that ended up to be great directions; we also made many wrong turns that ended in U-turns, in detours,  and once in the middle of a field (don’t tell Hertz).  We ended this 30 day segment where we began, in Barcelona.

The top items we learned :

  • Being in the city with the main attractions is great but having a car to drive to the outskirts saves approximately 50%
  • Road-side fruit stands always have the best fruit (yes the hill was that steep)
  • Ending the day with a deck of cards and a bottle of wine makes the day end perfectly
  • Aldi and Lidl are a travelers best friends
  • The car is never the perfect temperature
  • Don’t underestimate the minor sites – they can amaze you
  • A roadside picnic can be better than any 5 star restaurant
  • The off the beaten path hotels typically really want your business and it shows
  • Siri does NOT know everything

We are now in Scotland and have been having a blast.  Our new car – Scotty is doing great getting us around.  We will post very soon to give an update on our adventures.

I should have been a goat herder

Okay, here are my reasons:

1- How cute are these guys, they bleat and walk around eating all day and the really cool ones wear the bell.

2- I could be here – In Basque country.  In the rolling hills and lush green pastures.

3- Besides the smell (which is not the most pleasant I have experienced) the country living, with the fresh air is fantastic.

4- And I can not over state this at all – – – FRESH GOAT CHEESE ROCKS!!!

Iberian Ham, fresh goat cheese, mushrooms, and carmelized onions – – – Need I say more?

 

We left Portugal behind and after traveling through Castile and Leon we found ourselves in an area looking more like Austria than Spain.  The weather had turned so instead of shorts and T-shirts we were wearing long pants and jackets.  It was 39 degrees on Monday morning – my Florida blood was not liking it one bit.  The sun did manage to come out and we hiked the mountains and enjoyed the sights.

We have traveled north and are currently in Bayonne, France.  Six more nights until we fly out of Barcelona and on to our next destination – Scotland and Ireland.  I will update the itinerary shortly.  We have to get out of the Schengen area of Europe – only 90 days out of 180 can be spent in the main continent.  Also you know what they have lots of in Scotland and Ireland?

 

Our drive through Portugal

We are sitting here at our hotel in the Douro Valley, Portugal.  Missy is researching our next stop and I am trying to concentrate on writing this entry.  I say trying because I can’t help but to look up from my laptop: in the shade of an olive tree overlooking the vineyard, listening to the birds – this is truly a place to remember.

Ok – focus.

Our first stop in Portugal was in the small town in the southern part of the county in Santiago du Cacem.  Population,  maybe 75.  This charming village was home to our guest house for two days where we spent our days at the beach.

The winding roads, to avoid the tolls, are what I would consider, less than 1 lane.  The lack of population is evident, passing town after town of 10-15 homes.

The birds here at the vineyard are competing on who can sing the loudest as they dart through the fruit trees.

FOCUS!!!!

Leaving small town life, we headed to Lisbon – the capital city.  The change was almost indescribable.  From having the roads and beaches practically to ourselves to a frenzy of city life.  The cars parked in every location – yes, even in the middle of the street.  In Lisbon we enjoyed the Sao Jorge Castel, and the beautiful squares in the city.

Driving north we went to the walled city of Obidos.  This magnificent city sits on top of a hill surrounded by ancient city walls.  The walls were tall and at times a little precarious. 

We walked the entire length of the city taking in the fantastic views – and the Ginja – served in a chocolate cup (cherry liquor).

In Porto we marveled at the hillside buildings and enjoyed staying in the city – Missy found a great deal for a city center hotel.  The car safely parked, we ventured out on foot.  The steep hills and STAIRS – I don’t know how many we climbed but lets just say it was at least 18.5 million.

That catches us up to now.  We are in what could be one of the most beautiful locations in the world.  Steep hillsides with grapes hanging on sheer cliffs.  The food, the wine and the location is out of a dream.  The driving however is a nightmare.  The quaint streets with only one lane that I mentioned earlier – picture that with no guardrail, and a sheer cliff on one side and a rock face on the other.  Our little Seat, we named Izzy (Seat Ibiza), was working so hard up the steep cliffs with blind corners.  The views are worth it – even if it does cause a little panic.

Missy has found our next spot so we can now just sit,  relax and listen to the birds – before we have to drive these hills to find dinner tonight.

Seville

Our 2 days in Seville were all we could hope for.  The rhythm of the Flamenco dance flows though the city – you cannot escape it.  The energy is intoxicating.  Seville takes all.

The Seville Cathedral is the final resting place of Christopher Columbus.  

The Cathedral is the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world and is the third largest church in the world.  In a word, it’s ginormous.

Next door to the Cathedral is the Real Alcazar – Royal Palace.  The palace is a labyrinth of rooms of spectacular craftsmanship. 

But the palace,  in my opinion, is second to the gardens.  The courtyards and gardens of the palace are magnificent, the blooms, the smells, the colors in every corner you look.  Our lunch of fresh bread and the largest pears you could imagine were peacefully enjoyed in the gardens.

The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza encapsulates the history of Spain’s traditional bullfighting.   The narrow streets of this fantastic city will captivate you as it has us.

 

As a note:  As with the rest of Spain – dinner starts at 8:30PM.  A quick stop at Aldi can make a fantastic meal for 2.

Our 5th country of our adventure is next – – we will visit Portugal.