Author: Melissa Allen

Sorry for the delay between posts. We have been without internet for some time.

Many people have visited Zimbabwe by way of Victoria Falls, but few people continue the journey beyond city of the magnificent falls. Over the course of a week, we were lucky to see some of the great wonders Zimbabwe has to offer.

Backing up a few days, we crossed the border from Botswana to Zimbabwe. It is more of a process due to the requirement of a $30 visa. A few hours later we arrived in Victoria Falls (our third time in three years). A trip to Victoria Falls town is not complete unless you visit the Falls National Park. We did so with our whole group. It was such fun to experience with those seeing it for the first time. The falls never cease to amaze!

The next day, I opted for a very early morning game drive with my new friend Emily. We were lucky enough to see a 2-week-old baby rhino with its mother. The baby was adorable and running around just like toddlers would.  

 

 

While I was at the game drive, Robert jumped at the chance to go white water rafting with some friends from our group. Nine of them ventured out into the Zambezi River with excitement to take on some of the toughest rapids in the world. 

Then after 20 days with our new friends, we had to say goodbye to all but two. Alex and Sarah stayed on with us as we continued to explore Zimbabwe.

Venturing farther into Zimbabwe, we headed for Hwange National Park. It is the largest of all National Parks in Zimbabwe and is famous for the large quantity of elephants that call the park home. Our terrific guide, Ian, picked us up in the early afternoon for a game drive. On our drive we saw many animals from our safari vehicle. We also stopped at the viewing tower to watch the animals around the waterhole. After several hours, Ian took us back to camp where our Nomad guide was cooking dinner. The evening would be prove to be full of surprises.

Just before Ian surprised us by taking us for a night drive, we spotted a leopard strolling through our camp. After a brief close call, we jumped back in the safari truck with Ian and went to a different area of Hwange. Doing a game drive in the complete darkness with nothing but a spotlight, is an incredible experience. It’s not a time you can take pictures, you just have to enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the night. Within the first 10 minutes of entering the park, we saw another leopard stalking across the road. Wow, we have waited 2 years to see leopards and then saw 2 in one night! But the highlight of the night was when Ian turned off the lights when we neared a group of elephants. The only way to see them was the light of the moon. It was absolutely awesome! Seeing African wildlife never gets old!

The next morning, we took down our tents and packed the truck. We had a four-hour drive broken up by a stop in Zimbabwe’s second biggest city, Bulawayo. Our guide allowed us some time to explore the down town. Then we continued on the road to Motopo National Park. It is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site because of its intensive protection of Black and White Rhinos. Ian, our safari guide from Hwange, made the drive to Motopo as well. He is an expert in Zimbabwe wildlife and is very passionate about the protection of the Rhinos. He was excited to take us on a walk into to the bush in search of rhinos. After climbing up to the top of a rock hill, he spotted the rhinos in the distance. Our group hiked directly to them and had the incredible experience of being very close to them in the wild. Being within 10 feet of such a moment we will not soon forget. Click here to see a video of the rhinos close up. 

Leaving the wildlife parks behind us, our next stop was the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. The historic capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe dating back to the late Iron Age is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is famous for the intricate stone work completed on the top of the hill as well as soapstone bird carvings that have been sold and traded all of the world before being returned to their home country.  It is the largest structure of its kind in Africa, second only to the Pyramids of Giza. It is an intriguing place to visit offering insight into the historic culture of Zimbabwe.

The bonus of the Zimbabwe Ruins was all the wildlife that was hanging around. My favorite was the rainbow colored lizards hiding between the rocks.

Our last major activity before ending our 25-day tour was to cross the border between Zimbabwe and South Africa. This crossing was the longest and most difficult. The lines are extremely long and the people waiting are forced to wait in the heat of the sun. This is border crossing that takes more time. It was interesting to people watch during the wait. The locals were carrying their belongings on their heads from one country to the other.

After finishing at the border, we went a few hours farther until we reached Johannesburg, South Africa. We stayed one night and then took the short flight back to Cape Town.

The final days in Africa will be posted soon.

Our African adventure rolled on as we cleared the Namibia-Botswana border. We stayed the night in Ghanzi near the villages of another San (Bushman) tribe. The next morning several members of the San tribe took us on a bush walk and showed us the plants they use to cure ailments like back pain, headaches and upset stomachs. They were extremely friendly and communicated with us by using gestures and a translator. None of them spoke English. It was a very interesting and enjoyable experience.

Immediately following our bush walked, we jumped into the truck with great anticipation for the Okavango Delta. Several hours in the truck and 30 minutes in a wagon pulled by a tractor took us to a lodge on the west side of the Okavango Delta. We spent the next two days exploring the flora and fauna. In the evenings we took a sunset cruise with serene views over the water and beautiful birds resting in the reeds.

During the day, we were taken by speedboat deeper into the delta where we switched to mokoros (wooden canoes). The man navigating the mokoro is called a poler. He uses a very long pole to push the boat forward through he reeds. The mokoros have a flat bottom which allows them to glide over the vegetation underneath. During our two hour adventure, we meandered through the reeds following the hippos trails from island to island.

While the Okavango is considered to be one of the last great wildernesses of the world, we only saw a small piece of it. Our only disappointment was we were not taken farther into the delta where we would have seen more wildlife.

Upon leaving the lodge we drove 4 hours to the village of Maun. Even though it is not a huge city, they do have an airport which focuses on small plane flights over the Okavango Delta. We didn’t hesitate to take a flight in a six-seater plane for $80 per person. The 45-minute flight offered us an incredible view of the wildlife that the Okavango Delta has to offer. We hope to have the chance to return one day and venture farther into the center of the wilderness.

After the flight, we were exhausted. Our guides prepared a huge dinner for us which gave us some energy again. So we went with about half our group to a local Botswana bar. That was a true experience with a local DJ for the music, with the drinks and register behind bars. The locals even joined our group dance circle. It was a super fun!

Our next stop in Botswana is what we consider to be the best game view spot in all of Southern Africa – the banks of the Chobe River. We are blessed that is was our second trip to Chobe National Park and it was just as amazing as we remembered. The first half of the day was spent on a game drive.  We saw a tremendous amount of wildlife including female lions with their cubs, a dead elephant being eaten by vultures and a giraffe trying to hide behind a tree.

In the evening we went on a river cruise along the Chobe River where the wildlife is plentiful. If you’re lucky, the boat can offer a closer to view to some of animals than the safari vehicle. In our case, the elephants were right along side of our boat pulling up roots for a late afternoon snack. Click here to see the elephants eating. DSCN9900

Just as the sun was about to set, our boat captain spotted two elephants in the water. He took us over to them to watch the gentle giants as they are very good swimmers. But, as we got closer it was obvious that the two elephants were mating. It was quite amazing to see.

Once the elephants moved back to shore, we enjoyed the rest of the sunset in our beautiful surroundings.

The day in Chobe was over when the sun sunk below the horizon. We returned to camp for a meal around the campfire and some shut-eye in our tent.

Next is another border crossing from Botswana to Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls here we come.

 

Vast spaces of nothing but sand continued to be the landscape as we drove through the deserts of Namibia. We spent the night in a desert camp with nothing around us but wild animals and the most awesome view of the stars. The milky way shines so vividly. The Southern Hemisphere offers such a different view of the stars, often seeming much brighter than in the Northern Hemisphere. At night while we took in the stars near a water hole, we watched in complete silence as more than 40 zebras came to drink. The sounds of the animals was incredible even if the zebras seemed to be full of gas.

Before heading to our next stop, we met a Bushman guide who took us farther into the desert and told us about life for the nomadic San (Bushman) people who once lived in the area. He also introduced us to some of the local wildlife, including the white lady spider.

After leaving our desert camp, we made a stop in the seaside town of Walvas Bay. It is port city and a popular holiday destination for wealthy Europeans. The streets are lined with expensive homes owned by Europeans. It is a huge contrast to the rest of Namibia. Our purpose for stopping there was to see the stands of flamingos that call the coastal waters of Walvas Bay home.

Then we set off to the city of Swakopmund. It is a tourist friendly city on the sea with a population of approximately 44,000 people. The city center boasts restaurants of many different cuisines as well as several shopping streets. It is a typical stop for people visiting the western part of the country.

A two-night stay in a lodge was a welcome reprieve after a week in a tent, moving to a different location each day. During our free day, we took advantage of our time by heading to the city center in the morning with our new friends Bas and Stephanie from The Netherlands. We explored the shops, had lunch a nice café and took in the view of the city from the pier.

In the afternoon, a large part of our group opted to take a quad bike (four-wheeler) tour through the sand dunes along the coast. We sped up and down huge dunes feeling the adrenaline build with each steep descent. Some were more fearless than others but toward the end we all had the throttle as far as they would go.

In the middle of our trip we made a stop to do some sandboarding and sand sledding. The dunes were so much bigger than what we did in the UAE. It was so much fun but the climb back up to the top was tough. The only casualty was the sand burn hole Robert got in the knee of his pants. Overall it was an amazing day!

Leaving the comfort of the lodge, our truck headed for the rock hills of Spitzoppe. This area is comprised of massive granite rock formations rising above the desert up to 700 meters high. The San people who lived in the area up to 800 years ago left their mark by the rock paintings that still remain today.

Our group was offered a bush walk with a guide who gave us information about the rock paintings, as well as many of the plants that were used for medicinal purposes. During our bush walk, the temperatures started to rise and we were thrilled to return to our adventure truck to have lunch in the shade.

Another very early start at 5:00am, put us on the road toward the village of Opuwo. As soon as we pulled into the village, an overwhelming feeling came into the group that we had reached the “true Africa.” Opuwo is home to people from several different Namibia tribes. Each have a unique way of expressing their culture through their clothing. There were so many things to see as we passed through the village center is was hard to take it all in. We were able to snap a few photos of the people we saw.

In the afternoon, we had the opportunity to visit on of the small local Himba village. As time has passed and some of the tribe members have inter-married, their village is now home to families of three different tribes (Himba, Herero and Damara). They have opened their village to a small number of tourists in order to share their culture as well as raise money to send their children to school. While it was a bit awkward meeting them in the first moments of our visit, the women were welcoming and eager to interact with us. We were offered a rare glimpse into the traditional lifestyle of a Namibian tribe.

Did I mention that we got up very early during most of our trip? Well, it was up at 5:30am again. The whole group was so excited because our day was to be spent doing a game drive through Etosha National Park. It is the largest National Park in Namibia and home to many of Africa’s wildlife species. The waterholes in Etosha are filled with wildlife. It is the best place to sit a take in the magnificent animals. The only drawback to the park is that the waterholes are really far apart and due to the foliage, it is hard to see wildlife in between.

The distance to cross the park is huge and we spent over 12 hours in the truck that day doing both game viewing as well traveling to the other side. In all we traveled almost 700 kilometers in one day and arrived much later than expected at a camp outside the park. Timing was not on our side, as we missed our deadline to leave the park and were locked in by security. They required us to have an escort out of the park and took us to a gate headed the wrong direction. It was quite a day. After setting up our tents in the dark, the group was exhausted and finished our night by eating dinner at 10:30pm.

Our extremely tough day was made worth it in the last 1 hour of our game drive in Etosha on our second day. We saw two male leopards roaming around the waterhole. Incredible!! We have been on dozens of game drives and have only seen a leopard once prior to this. Our high position on our large truck allowed us to see over the other safari vehicles and watch as the leopards paced around the waterhole. It was the perfect way to end our game viewing adventure in Etosha National Park.

Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia, was our last stop before heading for the border. A local guide offered us a walking tour around the downtown in which we learned some interesting facts about how this very young country started to build itself after its independence in 1990. Most interesting is that North Korea offered them financial and physical support in building some of their government buildings. It wasn’t until many of the members of the UN threatened to pull trade agreements from Namibia did they end their partnership with North Korea. Windhoek has some great history to learn about but the city is not a great tourist destination, rather a place of transport via their international airport.

The next morning, we had to say goodbye to six members of our group. We hated to see Marinella, Stefania, Ilena, Annika, Bas and Stephanie all standing alongside the truck as we climbed in. It was sad waving bye to all of them as we pulled away. We hope to have made some lifelong friends. We miss you Stephanie and Bas!

 

Another six group members joined us as our journey continues into Botswana.

 

Our second Nomad adventure tour began as we left Cape Town very early in the morning on the truck with 23 people that would become one big family. As we drove to the area known as Table View, the sun started to rise. We stepped out of the truck to snap a photo of Table Mountain as the colors of the sky changed. It is a little known vantage point for tourists, but well worth the 30-minute drive to get there.

After watching the sunrise at Table View, the beautiful scenery past through the truck window as we left Cape Town behind us. Our group stopped for a wine tasting at Spice Route Wine Farm located in Paarl, located about one hour east of Cape Town. It was a treat to get on last stop at a South African winery before continuing on the road to Namibia.  

We arrived just before sunset at a campground on an orange farm. We were excited (and a bit nervous) for our first night tent camping in Africa. The canvas tents are nice and we were given sleeping pads which is a huge bonus. The only problem was, it was extremely cold! We spent the whole night shivering and begged our guide to take us to buy blankets the next day.

A full day of driving brought us to the campground for our second night along the Orange River, on the South African side. We enjoyed a delicious dinner around the campfire before retiring to our tent. Sleeping that night was a much better experience since we were now equipped with extra blankets and a small pillow.

In the morning we joined part of our group for a canoe trip down the Orange River. Since the water is very cold there is not any large wildlife in the river such as crocodiles or hippos. We had a peaceful float while taking in the beautiful mountains along the South African and Namibian border. During our canoe trip we saw a lot of birds, including the African darter. 

After our canoe trip we went just around the corner to pass through Namibian immigration. Crossing the border on land was simple with no lengthy line to contend with. As we started our trip into Namibia, we had an all-day drive on bumpy roads that led us to Fish River Canyon. The group jumped out of the truck ready to walk the edge of the canyon as the sunset behind the ridge. Fish River Canyon is one of the largest canyons in the world, looking in some ways similar to the Grand Canyon. However, since Namibia’s climate is so dry, there is virtually no water in the “river” below. At the end our walk, we joined back up with our guides that had cooked a yummy dinner on the side of our truck. We ate at the picnic tables as the sun went down.

Rising early is a regular thing on an African adventure tour. The next morning was no exception. Our alarm went off at 4:30am and we had taken down our tents, eaten breakfast and gotten in the truck by 5:30am. Our destination was Dune 45 in the Naukluft National Park, part of the Namib Desert.

The landscape is nothing but reddish sand as far as one can see. We climbed the 80-meter-high Dune 45 as the bright orange sun started to peek above the horizon. Atop the dune was a perfect place to watch the colors change with the rising sun. We descended the dune and had breakfast in the desert along side of our truck.

A bit farther into the Naukluft National Park are the salt pans of Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. We were taken deeper into the desert on 4×4 trucks and then hiked in about a mile farther. Reaching the salt pans, we realized why it was such a special location. The white of the salt from the dried-up lakes that long ago where found in the area is a vast contrast to the red sand of the dunes. Left in the middle of the salt pans are dead trees that have remained standing for many years. The trees are now protected and no one is allowed to touch them. What an amazing place to see!

The desert lands of Namibia go on for miles and miles with nothing to see except for sand. Sometimes we would drive for hours and never see another car on the road.  We even got out of the truck to take pictures in the middle of the road. The terrain changes a little for sand to rock and then rough dried up dirt. The colors of the desert are beautiful and different from any place we have been.

Our long bumpy rides in the truck continued as we made out way to the Tropic of Capricorn.  We stopped to stretch our legs and snap a group picture. After a 30-minute break, we jumped back in the truck to complete our drive to city of Swakopmund, Namibia.

Our adventure will continue as we quad bike through the sand dunes…

It is our third year in a row to return to the wine region of South Africa. After traveling around the world, I can honestly say it is my favorite place. There are many reasons why. Some of which I can describe as breathtaking scenery, first class restaurants, beautiful vineyards and one of a kind experiences. What I can’t quite put into words is the feeling I have when drinking a glass of Pinotage (South African grape varietal) and enjoying a five-star dining experience while taking in the view. It was the perfect place to celebrate my birthday!

 

Once we decided to come back to Africa during our world tour, we set aside a full week to visit the winelands. Located a half hour east of Cape Town International Airport is Stellenbosch. Another half hour farther east is Franschhoek. The entire area around and in between the two is the wine region. We chose to stay in Franschhoek which is a much smaller community but considered to have the highest quality food and wine South Africa has to offer. The cottage we rented for the week was on the edge of a wildlife reserve. It was a special treat to wake up each morning to see the Zebras, Springbok and Wildebeests just outside of our window.

During our previous trips to Stellenbosch we visited many beautiful wineries for wine tastings and a few meals. This time we took a different approach. We searched for the unique wine experiences offered by many of the wine farms. Here are the ones we enjoyed:

Our favorite wine experience of our visit was a private cellar tour and wine blending and Rickety Bridge. It was top notch from start to finish. Our personal wine guide provided us a tour of the wine making process, the cellars and then walked us through each step of the blending process.

And a little secret… the whole experience for both us was R600 – $44.63 USD and we got to keep the two bottles we made.

 

We would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the Franschhoek area.

The morning of our last day in Franschhoek we made a reservation to stop at Vergenoegd Low Wine Estate. It is the last vineyard before the highway back to Cape Town. The Vergenoegd Low Wine Estate has some unusual workers – Indian Runner Ducks. They have over 1,700 ducks on the farm who work in the vines as well as do a daily “duck parade.” We arrived at 10:30am in time to see the duck parade. Click here to see the parade – IMG_2884 .

Immediately following the parade we got a chance to feed the ducks. That was crazy as the ducks were stepping on your feet, squaking at us and pecking for food all around us.

After the interacting with the ducks, our private guide poured us a taste of wine and walked us out to the vines. There we were able to see the ducks at work eating bugs and snails from beneath the vines. As we walked with our guide through the vines, we tried a few more of the estates wines. This experience is “Wine in the Vine.” It was excellent!

We rounded off our last day with lunch at Asara Wine Estate. Their Bistro offers a large deck with an outstanding view of the mountains.  The food was excellent.

 

Tomorrow we are off on our Nomad Adventure Tour to Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and back to South Africa. It’s going to be an adventure…

 

Very early in the morning (approximately 4:00am) we were picked up in Tetebatu, Lombok and taken to the airport for our 6:30am flight. As the morning progressed no word was given as to when our flight would board. Time continued to pass until we finally started boarding the tiny propeller plane at 8:45am. The distance is only 100 miles, so a little strange to take a flight but it was our only option since the ferries were all cancelled. What should have been a short domestic flight ended up being a seven hour journey. We were excited to spend our last few days in Indonesia returning to the first place we visited in Asia six years ago.

As soon as we entered the Ubud area we could see that tourism has continued to increase since our last visit. Ubud is the center of tourism in Indonesia made famous in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. Since that movie was released in 2010, tourism has doubled and the area caters to tourists. However, for most people it remains the quintessential Balinese experience. For us, it is much like going to any major tourist destination offering a fun atmosphere and lots of activities but not the authentic cultural vibe we look for. On one’s first trip to Bali, it is definitely worth a 2 – 3 day visit.

While there are a few medium size hotels, most tourist accommodations are in bed and breakfast, guesthouses or homestays. We stayed at a guesthouse that was more like a small hotel with a beautiful pool, great rooms and a yummy breakfast.  We were presented with a fresh coconut drink upon our arrival. The walk from Nayoman Sandi Guest House, where we stayed, was about 0.7 miles into Ubud center.

Ubud’s main streets are lined with shops, artist studios, restaurants, spas, tourism agents and fruit stands. There is a large tourist market in the city center with locals selling hundreds of souvenirs. We enjoyed walking around the market to see all the things that are for sale as well as people watching. 

As with the rest of Asia, if you want to buy something be prepared to bargain without being shy. The locals always quote something outlandish and you can settle on about 50% of what they originally offer and sometimes as much as 70% less. We bought just a few things as we don’t have much space to take things along with us.

During our four day stay, we took advantage of the cheap spa offerings available and had 2.5 hour treatment for approximately $17.00 each. It was wonderful!

We also hired a driver for a day to take us to some of the sites in the area that we did not see on our previous trip. We spent 7 hours touring temples, seeing another volcano and climbing a rice terrace.

The Holy Springs Temple Complex or Tirtha Empul, consists of many buildings and pools where visitors can take a dip in the water for a spiritual healing. The temple was built in 962 AD and has since been used as a sacred Hindu place of worship.  We watched as people lined up to “cleanse” themselves. In other parts of the temple we watched as offerings were presented to the Hindu gods.

A few things to note about taking a tour from Ubud.

• There is a difference between hiring a driver and a guided tour.  It’s important to clarify before finalizing a price.
• Bring a sarong or large scarf on the tour. This applies to both men and women. It is required to cover your legs all the way to your ankles to enter the temples.
• Each place charges a small fee for entrance. Usually 15,000 INR (approx. $1) per person. Make sure to take cash as no one excepts credit cards.

On our last day we had a chance to make traditional Balinese offerings at our guesthouse. The wife of the owner demonstrates to any of the guests that wish to learn. The offerings are made bamboo leaves, flowers and grass. We tried our best but they were far from perfect. Once completed they are offered in temples or to anything you may be thankful for. We left ours on the steps of our bungalow which is very common practice in Bali.

After an incredible month in Indonesia the time has come for us to say goodbye to this diverse country. We enjoyed our last fresh blended juice on the patio of our bungalow.

We were very happy to have a chance to visit the island that holds a special place in our heart. Six and a half years ago we were married on the black sand beaches of Bali. One day we will be back again!

Over the next 2 days we have 33 hours of travel including 4 international flights to get from Bali to Cape Town, South Africa.  Stellenbosch Wine Region here we come!

As you may have seen in the international news, there was a large earthquake in Indonesia on the morning of July 29th.  Currently we are on the island of Bali. While we were woken up yesterday morning by the shaking of our building, we are completely fine and there is no damage to the area in which we are staying. The epi-center of the earthquake was approximately 100 miles east of here on the island of Lombok (north of where we just came from). It registered as a 6.4 magnitude with an after shock of 5.7 magnitude. Please keep the people of Lombok in your thoughts and prayers.

We have received many texts, calls and emails from our friends and family checking on us. Thank you all for your concern. All is well!

Through the wake of our boat, we could see our bungalow on Gili Gede getting smaller in the distance. The boatman dropped us off on the beach where a car

was waiting to take us into the center of Lombok. After a two and a half hour drive, we reached the area of Tetebatu.  It is a lesser known tourist area with a few guesthouses and homestays to accommodate travelers. Our driver dropped us off on the side of the road near a small alley, pointing and saying “that way.” We took our luggage down the alley, around the corner and up into a garden where we found our bungalow. Mu and his family were very gracious hosts during our entire stay. We were lucky that Mu was also able to be our tour guide. He offered us two full days of private tours for a very reasonable price.

The morning of our first tour day, we set out of foot through the local neighborhood and into the rice fields. We followed the footsteps of the farmers walking on the ledges of fields. Most them only wide enough to put down one foot at a time or sometimes walking along the irrigation canals.

We explored for hours, while Mu gave us a lesson in the process of rice farming. After his lesson we have a greater understanding of all the work that goes into growing rice, the differences in the kinds of rice grown and how it is harvested. The communities around Tetebatu are some of the best places to see rice grown all year round because each farmer starts planting rice at a different time. They do this to spread out the water source. There isn’t enough water available for everyone to plant at the same time so they rotate. Farmers grow three crops of regular white rice or two crops of sticky rice per year. We had an opportunity to meet many of the locals in the fields during our trek. One of the farmers even cut up some fresh coconuts and let us enjoy them in his shaded hut.

After walking about 8 kilometers we came to a large stream. We followed Mu up the steam and through the canyon using some ladders and railings made of bamboo to get to a waterfall. The water was very cold but we braved it anyway.

Continuing our walk a short distance from the Tetebatu Waterfall, we reached the dense forest home to black monkeys. It was like entering a whole different world. We took a rest while watching them swing from tree to tree. We were happy to know that the black monkeys are not aggressive and do not want to interact with visitors.

Another 2 kilometers of walking led us to a Warung (a restaurant serving local dishes). After a good meal of fried noodles, we were exhausted. Mu and his friend took us back to our bungalow on scooters. Thank goodness!

We took a rest upon our return and in the late afternoon we got the chance to roast fresh coffee beans the traditional Lombok way with Mu and his mother. It was an awesome experience following all the proper steps:

Once we had the powder we mixed it with water and enjoyed the fruits of our labor.

Day two of our tetebatu private tour was on scooters. Robert got a 30 second lesson on how to drive one and we were off. As were driving we came across a group of locals harvesting in one of the rice fields. Mu stopped and took us over to watch the process. The people are so friendly and were thrilled to have us there, even giving us a chance to join in. The rice grains are removed from the stalks by banging bundles of stalks against a large piece of wood. As you can imagine, rice grains fly everywhere but are gathered on a tarp that is laid out over the field. Local people come to help the farmer harvest and as payment they get to take the stalks home to feed their cows. Click the link to watch the process.  20170220_102704

The next several hours were spent going from village to village meeting local women. We had the opportunity to observe and sometimes participate in the making of Lombok handicrafts. Unlike other countries, the handicrafts from Lombok are not made in factories but rather by local women in their homes. We were welcomed by the ladies to watch them while they made sarongs, processed tobacco, made pottery and weaved bamboo bags.

Since this area is not full of tourists, it was a unique environment to experience what the women do in their everyday lives.

 

On last stop of the day we hiked to see the beautiful Benang Stokel Waterfalls. This is an unusual site because it consists of two water falls side by side. In rainy season it sometimes spits into three waterfalls. It is not as grand as many we have seen in our travels but the setting is beautiful and the double falls is breathtaking.

 

 

After just 3 days in Lombok, our stay was at an end. It was one of the most authentic cultural experience we have had on our journey so far. It is long way to get to Tetebatu but worth the trip.

Our journey continues to Ubud Bali with a 6:30am flight since the ferries are cancelled due to 20 foot waves. Will the flight be better than a boat ride?

Off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia lie several islands. There are two groups of them. There are three islands in the northwest – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. On the southwest side of Lombok, are many small islands, the largest of which is Gili Gede. The word Gili is pronounced “Gilly” and means small. Each of the Gilis can be reached only by boat. After our amazing stay on the west coast of Bali, we took a 90 minute ride on a small boat from Amed to Gili Trawangan. Arriving on the beach was almost a shock because of how different the island was from where we had come from. There are crowds of people, horse buggies, bike riders, many boats along the beach, men trying to sell tours, souvenir vendors on the beach and bars that line the beachfront street. We located our hotel just up the street from where we were dropped off on the beach. It was right in the middle of all the action.

The Manta Dive Hotel where we stayed was wonderful. They offer all levels of scuba diving and training on site. After walking the main road from along the beach we had a better grip on what the vibe of the island was.  As few things we discovered: 1) We were by far some of the oldest people there. Most tourists are in their early twenties. 2) It is a party island. The restaurants and bars offering live music in the evenings as well as drinking games and drink specials. 3) No motorized vehicles are allowed on the island.  Horse carts and bicycles are used for transportation. 4) Gili Trawangan must be great for snorkeling as most of their activities are based around seeing the marine life.

Since we aren’t really the “party all night long” type of people, we opted to make the most of the beautiful beaches and marine life. We jumped at the chance to take a 6 hour snorkel trip around all three Gili Northwest Islands for $14 USD per person.  During our trip, we enjoyed four different snorkel spots and got off the boat to visit both Gili Meno and Gili Air. The other two islands are much more chill with very little commercial business on them. Gili Air has a small shopping area near the beach and a few guesthouses for overnight guests. While it was nice to see the other islands, the snorkeling was the best part.

The area is known as one of the best places in world to swim with sea turtles in their natural habitat. Even knowing that, we were amazed at the opportunity we had to be so close to them and see so many at one time. My favorite spot was actually a dive spot were the water was close to 40 feet deep. Because the visibility is so good, we could still see the bottom, but wasn’t great for photos. However, we were able to see up to six turtles at one time.

During our snorkel trip we also saw the underwater statue off the coast of Gili Meno. It is a piece of art that was put there for visitors and now attracts not only snorkelers but growing coral and many tropical fish. The statue can be seen by swimming from the beach or when dropped off by boat.

 

We ended our day of snorkeling at our last stop at the “Fish Garden”, off the coast of Gili Air. While there isn’t much coral, there were tons of fish swimming all around us. The snorkel trip is a must do when visiting the northwest Gili Islands.

 

On our last full day on Gili Trawangan, we walked to the southwest side of the island. It was amazing how all the craziness and chaos of the main tourist area just drifted away the farther we went. While there are still resorts and restaurants on that part of the island, it is so peaceful.

It is the part of the island we would chose to stay at if we come back to Gili Tranwangan. The beaches are clean and the atmosphere is relaxed. We spent the whole day just lounging on the beach. Robert got a massage from one of the locals that is set up on the beach and I was content to read a book and enjoy the view. Just before sunset, we found a seat at the Paradise Sunset Bar to watch the sun sink below the horizon.

The next morning we were all set to board the fast ferry to Gili Gede but we were informed that all the fast ferries were cancelled. The company we bought the ferry tickets from set up alternate transportation. Which meant that we were ferried on a very small boat to Lombok, then took a private car two and a half hours south and then boarded a local fishing boat to our secluded resort on the cliffs of Gili Gede.

Gili Gede is off the southwest coast of Lombok. It is still an “unknown” tourist destination. There is one small resort, our bungalows and a few small guesthouses on the island. There is a population of approximately 1,000 locals that live and work on and in the water around the island. There are no shops, restaurants, tourist vendors, etc. We ate every meal at the Hula Hoop Bungalows. All of our activities were done from the resort as well. It was the most amazing five days!

Our first day we took an all day private snorkel trip to two of the islands. The visibility was awesome and we even swam with another sea turtle.  The coral reefs around the islands were incredible with so many different kinds and colors. We encountered some interesting marine life during our snorkel trip including two eels (one was a striped snake eel) and a large clam.  Since there were very few tourists in the area, we had the entire area to snorkel all on our own.

Our hotel packed a fried rice lunch, which we enjoyed in a island shelter.  Our guide picked fresh coconuts and cut them open for us to sip the coconut water straight from the shell. When we finished digging out the fresh coconut, we threw them to the cows who live on the island. They loved them. What a wonderful day.

Another day we rented kayaks and paddled to one of the uninhabited islands in the bay, Gili Layar. We walked the beach and found some very interesting creatures that washed up on shore; a yellow lobster type creature, a sea slug, a huge rotund star fish and a spotted eel. It was such fun to be the only ones walking the beach and hunting for unusual things.

The other days we explored the island, walked through the local village, got a massage and relaxed in the shade. Every night we watched the sunset over the water illuminating the shape of the Mt. Agung volcano on the island of Bali. We could not imagine a better place to spend a relaxing week. The people in Indonesia are extremely nice, especially the staff of the Hula Hoop. They treated us like royalty. We can’t thank them enough for our amazing stay. It truly was paradise.

We are leaving paradise, aka Gili Gede, for the island of Lombok.

Our final days of our road trip in Australia took us for more adventure and fun in the sun. After leaving Townsville, we drove the 6 hours north to the Daintree Rainforest and camped for the night in a caravan park created from an old mining town. The owners of the park were some of the nicest people we have met. They took the time to show us where to find some of the beautiful birdlife they have in the area. I know… surprise more wildlife! The theme will continue we our travels go on. Hiking just before dusk allowed us to see some very cool birds. My favorites were the Rainbow Lorikeets and the elusive Tawny Frogmouth Owl.

The following morning we drove to the east side of the Daintree Rainforest to hike to the Mossman Gorge. The Wet Tropics area, including the rainforest and Mossman Gorge are on the list of World Heritage Sites. In order to get to the trails near the gorge, one must purchase a ticket for the shuttle bus. The ticket to the shuttle is the only cost required for a visit to the gorge. There are no cars allowed to drive through the area between the welcome center and the gorge because it is Aboriginal land. The shuttle drop off is at the beginning of the trails. We saw people hiking and swimming along the gorge. We walked the three kilometer path to experience the dense and expanse of the rainforest.

Along the path there were very few wildlife encounters other than a wild turkey and some wild pigs. The Mossman Gorge was captivating with the water rushing past.

At the conclusion of our hike we stopped for a picnic lunch. Soon after, the skies opened and it poured down rain. That put a damper on our afternoon plans to further explore the rainforest. There is much to see in the Daintree Rainforest as well as the visitors center and the town of Daintree. We drove through the rain until we reached the coastal town of Port Douglas. Instantly we were thrilled to have gotten the tip from our Australian friends to visit this lovely town. We found a free parking spot on the downtown shopping street and enjoyed the afternoon popping in and out of shops. After being in Port Douglas for the afternoon we wished to stay the night but the only two caravan parks in the area were completely full. That was a bummer because Port Douglas is the kind of town you want to stay a while in.  So much to our dismay we had to jump back in the van and head toward Cairns before dark.

The drive south is along the coast and the rain had ceased. We were able to secure one of the very last unpowered spots at a beach side campsite 20 miles north of Cairns along Ellis Beach. The place was packed but the view from our campsite awesome. The other campers were all set to be there for several months. We enjoyed the evening along the beach by watching sunset and playing some cards.

Since Ellis Beach isn’t a town just the coastline, there are alcoves along the road to pull off and take a trail to the white sand beaches. We did just that the next morning and spent hours laying in our handy “air sofas” we have along with us.

It was just us, the palms trees and the ocean waves. It was the perfect day at the beach.

Our last two nights were spent in a super packed caravan park in Cairns. It was the only place we spent more than one night on our entire road trip in Australia. We spent the extra night there because we wanted to take the boat trip to the Great Barrier Reef.

After some research, we discovered that the winds near Cairns have been very heavy over the past several months causing the seas to be very choppy and the water churned up, causing pour visibility. Therefore the farther away from land the better the visibility of the reef. Being careful to chose a boat trip that goes to the outer reef, we selected the company Down Under Dive. They have new boats with great facilities and a good lunch. We left the Cairns port at 8:00am. The trip to the outer reef takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. Within the first 20 minutes people were already sea sick. Remember when I asked “are your prone to sea sickness?” Well, I am! Knowing that fact ahead of time, I had taken sea sickness medicine and was wearing my wristbands that steady the equilibrium. Thank goodness because at least 75% of all the passengers had gotten sick by the time we made it to our first snorkeling spot. It was not pretty. Even the people that joked before we left that said “they don’t get sea sick,” we regretting it by the time we made it there. Of course, Robert was one of the lucky ones. He never felt the slightest bit sick.

Our words of advice should you get the chance to visit the Great Barrier Reef; do not under estimate the possibility that you may get sea sick. Always be overly prepared. You don’t want the sea sickness to ruin the experience.

The snorkeling was exciting with lots to see but the waves were so choppy that it was exhausting trying to swim around. Robert and I spent as much time as we could snorkeling. And since neither one of us felt sick, we got more time than most in the water. The visibility was not as good as the last time we snorkeled the Great Barrier Reef but was still an awesome experience.

The city of Cairns is much larger than you expect. They have a beautiful esplanade along the waterfront with fountains and picnic areas. As well as many shops and restaurants that cater to tourists. It’s a great place to visit and to experience some of the amazing water activities that can be done there. It is the most popular place to visit the Great Barrier Reef. However, the waterfront is not conducive to swimming or enjoying a day in the sand.

If given the chance to visit north Queensland, take it. Weeks can be spent exploring the tropical coastline, the rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. When deciding about where to stay, opt for the small town of Port Douglas, instead of Cairns. They offer all the same tours with smaller groups. You will be glad you did. But, don’t forget to make reservations.

Well, that concludes our amazing Aussie adventure. Thanks to all that offered suggestions about where to stay and visit. Australia is an amazing country. We look forward to returning for more adventure. We are off on a red-eye flight to Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia. Can’t wait for the calm, relaxation and to sleep in a bed!